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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Pennsylvania
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I have a Kicker zx750.1 , the amp kicks in and out of protect mode. I brought the amp inside and currently have the cover off the amp and tested with a multimeter the speaker output terminals and this is whats happening. When I power the amp on for the first time it reads 0.0v DC and it begins to clime 0.3, 0.6, 0.10, and so on.. It climes for about 30 seconds until it reaches 1.75v DC and goes into protect mode. It then comes out of protect mode and shoots back up to about 1.45v and climes back up to 1.75v and goes back into protect mode and it just repeats and repeats. Any ideas on it? It does this with or without a subwoofer connected now. Nothing on the board looks bad or smells burnt.
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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With the black probe on the negative speaker terminal and the red probe on either terminal of the output filter inductor, does the voltage spike significantly higher (near 80v)?
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
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check the input pre-amp, the problem is there
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Pennsylvania
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The highest voltage I measured in between the on and off cycles was 5.8V before it kicks back into protect, it looked like it would keep climbing though. And about the input preamp board, the amp still cycles with the board plugged in or not and I still read voltage on the output side. Also noticed that the protect cycles are becoming shorter and shorter so I tested the output voltage again and now I am getting 3-4 volts DC on the outputs. I took notice that two of the transistors are getting warm and the others are cool if you look at the pictures and count form left to right they are numbers 6 & 7 the are the only two different looking ones of the bunch.
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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6 and 7 are regulators and will run hot normally.
Have you checked all of the output transistors to confirm that none are shorted?
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Pennsylvania
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Top and bottom groups of five transistors on the left side in the photo.
With your meter set to ohms, you should not read anything near 0 ohms between the legs of any individual transistor, no matter the placement/orientation of the probes.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Pennsylvania
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I just tested both rows with Multimeter set at 20K Ohms and neither combination of pins 1-2, 1-3, 2-3 have a reading of 0. All combinations have ohms pins 1-3 are a steady 50 and the other two combinations increase while I hold the probes on them.
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Post the DC voltage on all pins of the LM361 (U14). Place the black meter probe on the negative speaker terminal.
Look up the datasheet if you don't know the pin numbering scheme. Copy and paste the following into your reply. Pin 1: Pin 2: Pin 3: Pin 4: Pin 5: Pin 6: Pin 7: Pin 8: Pin 9: Pin 10: Pin 11: Pin 12: Pin 13: Pin 14:
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Pennsylvania
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LM361
Pin 1: 12.13 Pin 2: 0 Pin 3: 7.58 Pin 4: 0.56 Pin 5: 0 Pin 6: -12.06 Pin 7: 0 Pin 8: 2.95 Pin 9: 1.56 Pin 10: 1.81 Pin 11: 1.59 Pin 12: 0 Pin 13: 2.95 Pin 14:2.95 __________ |
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