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#11 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Are you sure that 9, 10 and 11 were all positive voltages?
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Pennsylvania
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I retested all of them again. Pins 9, 10 are negative. but 11 is positive.
LM361 Pin 1: +12.13 Pin 2: 0 Pin 3: -7.58 Pin 4: -0.56 Pin 5: 0 Pin 6: -12.06 Pin 7: 0 Pin 8: +2.95 Pin 9: -1.56 Pin 10: -1.81 Pin 11: +1.59 Pin 12: 0 Pin 13: +2.95 Pin 14:+2.95 __________ |
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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That looks OK.
Post the DC voltage on U11 and U13.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Pennsylvania
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U11
Pin 1: -10.5 Pin 2: 3.58 Pin 3: 0 Pin 4: -12.14 Pin 5: 0.42 Pin 6: 0.40 Pin 7: 4.28 Pin 8: 12.06 U13 Pin 1: 0 Pin 2: 0 Pin 3: 0 Pin 4: -12.08 Pin 5: 0 Pin 6: 0 Pin 7: 0.63 Pin 8: 12.09 |
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#15 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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U11 may be defective. Can you easily replace that IC?
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#16 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Pennsylvania
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I have soldered before but nothing this small. What exactly does U11 do and what would make it go bad? Im just curious.
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#17 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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U11 is part of the servo/feedback circuit, if I'm not mistaken. I don't have the schematic diagram.
There's no way to determine what caused it to fail. It may not have failed but from the numbers you posted, I think it's defective. I could be wrong. The voltage doesn't always indicate conclusively that an IC has failed.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#18 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Pennsylvania
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I just replaced U11 and everything went well. Easier than what I thought. I retested it and I am still getting the same voltages give or take a few like 0.03V. I repleaced with a brand new tlo72c. Any other ideas about this board?
U11 Pin 1: -10.5 Pin 2: 3.58 Pin 3: 0 Pin 4: -12.14 Pin 5: 0.42 Pin 6: 0.40 Pin 7: 4.28 Pin 8: 12.06 U13 Pin 1: 0 Pin 2: 0 Pin 3: 0 Pin 4: -12.08 Pin 5: 0 Pin 6: 0 Pin 7: 0.63 Pin 8: 12.09 |
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#19 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Remove the LM361. Be careful not to damage the board. Make sure that all legs are completely free before pulling it out.
Find a point near the LM361 that reads 0 ohms to the negative speaker terminal. Connect a jumper from pin 11 to that point. Do the relays engage and remain engaged? Post the DC voltage on pads 3, 4 and 11 of the LM361.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#20 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Pennsylvania
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Quote:
I removed LM361 successfully. ![]() Without a jumper wire on pin 11 the amp cycles on and off but no red lights. With a jumper wire on pin 11 to a point on the board the relays engage and the amp stays on in green mode. Im reading 0.03V across the speaker outputs. Pin 3 -10.68V Pin 4 0.0V Pin 11 0.0V |
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