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Old 20th April 2012, 03:25 PM   #11
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Thanks Perry! I will check a few things tonight.
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Old 21st April 2012, 06:20 PM   #12
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I set DMM DC voltage to 20V.
So I traced pin 11 backwards and it connects to a jumper.

So I decided to hook up 18 AWG wire from the remote/turn on terminal to pin 11.

I placed the black probe on the ground terminal on the outside. I measured 12V on pin 11, and 12V on pin 8.

Afterwards, I removed the board from the chassis and observe the circuit trace on the back starting from pin 11.

I believe I cause more damage to the board. I noticed the trace on the board is no longer glued to the PCB. Also, somehow it split into 2 parts too.

So I solder the 18 AWG on pin 11 to the jumper wire. Screwed it back in and measured it again. Same measurements but it is still not turning on.

The mosfet's 1st and 3rd legs are still 0.00V. Center legs are 12V.

Any suggestions? I'll post pics of the damage and rewiring.
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Old 21st April 2012, 07:17 PM   #13
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What's the resistance with the black probe on pin 7 of the 494 and the red probe on pin 8 of the 494?

Did you smell it burn when you connected the jumper?
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Old 21st April 2012, 11:41 PM   #14
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Here is the back side of the board:
Click the image to open in full size.

Earlier I placed electrical tape over the wires, and taped the loose traces with tape too. I screwed the board back in and reconnected the B+, ground, and remote terminals. I didn't smell anything burning, or see any smoke. I disconnected the connections to the terminals.

I set DMM to Ohm 20k.

I placed black probe on pin 7 and red on pin 8.

The numbers kept going up. It did not stop.
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Old 21st April 2012, 11:45 PM   #15
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If you still don't have 12v on pins 8 and 11, you need to follow it all of the way back until you get to the remote terminal of the amp.
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Old 22nd April 2012, 01:42 AM   #16
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Thanks Perry!

I had 12 V on pin 8 and 11. But i blew the mosfets on the left side and it appears i burned another trace on the pcb.

Bah i need to buy parts. What kind of jump wires do i use? I am not sure what size awg.

Gonna order mosfets, them drivers, jumper wires, an ic. Anything else i should add?
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Old 22nd April 2012, 02:08 AM   #17
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The wire size isn't critical as long as the wire has at least as much copper as the trace did.

Read the basic repair page and pay special attention to the information in the yellow box. IF you do as is suggested there, you won't blow any FETs.
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Old 22nd April 2012, 03:52 PM   #18
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Thanks Perry!

I am searching for the parts but unable to find the IC KIA494

I did find KIA494P
Match-a-knob Electronics Wholesale Distributor

I searched TL494 but found TL494CN
TL494CN Texas Instruments Voltage Mode PWM Controllers

I am guessing TL494CN can be considered a good substitute ? They seem to match.

I having a hard time figuring out a substitute for the mosfets DFP50N06.

Any suggestions? Thanks!
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Old 22nd April 2012, 03:56 PM   #19
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The TL494 is the same as the KIA 494. The TL594 is also a good substitute.

The IRFZ44 or IRFZ46 are good subs for the DFP part.
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Old 23rd April 2012, 07:42 PM   #20
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I am researching a couple more parts.

I am looking to replace a1266, which I believe are drivers? It comes back as a possible PNP TRANSISTOR EPITAXIAL.
A1266 datasheet, A1266 datasheets, A1266 datenblatt, A1266 manual, A1266 data sheets, A1266 pdf - ALLDATASHEET.COM
Click the image to open in full size.
Closes I found is a BD139 Transistor. Is this a good substitute?

Also, I was observing another IC, IL4558S-9. It appears to be a Dual Operational Amplifiers.

Datasheet:
IL4558S-9 pdf, IL4558S-9 description, IL4558S-9 datasheets, IL4558S-9 view ::: ALLDATASHEET :::

It is a SIP-9 design. I have like 5 of these on the board but I am looking at the one near IC 494.
Click the image to open in full size.
I found other similar OP AMPs like KIA358S, KA1458S, or KA458S but all these appear to be obsolete. Is SIP-9 also obsolete? I found a ton of 8 DIP designs.

What would replace an IL4558S-9 SIP-9 IC?

Thanks!

Last edited by QikoCB7; 23rd April 2012 at 07:54 PM.
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