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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
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I repaired this amp a few months ago with the help of this board and it had been working great. I've had it powering a single 10" JL W3 bridged mono at 4 ohms.
Last night was the first time starting the car after sitting for a couple weeks and I heard a high pitched whine from the back and thought at first that it was my fuel pump and that it seemed to be a tick louder than usual. I investigated and it sounded like it was coming from the sub. Then I looked in the trunk and saw that the "protect" light was on, in addition to the normal red LED. Where should I focus my attention on troubleshooting this issue? |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Wisconsin
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Verify battery voltage is high enough and then check the outputs for shorts. Move on to the supply fets, if all measure ok, power it up and check rail voltage.
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BK 1544 40Mhz scope.....Pyramid PS-26KX supply.....Tenma 72-380 Func. Generator |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Don't apply power without the bottom cover tightly clamped onto the transistors. If it has a shorted output transistor, it could cause significantly more damage if the transistors aren't clamped down tightly.
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Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Northern California
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Shorted outputs for sure by my experiences.
And Perry is correct no power to the amp without some clamping method to hold the power devices to the sink when the bottom is off. Especially the regulators just after the diodes they heat up quickly and fail in short order with proper clamping. Last edited by 1moreamp; 29th March 2012 at 04:55 PM. |
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