Hey all, I have a similar question in relation to this thread:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/car-...irect-amp-no-h-u-sound-quality-questions.html
I have an iphone that I use as an audio source on a daily basis. I currently have an old jvc headunit that is on its last legs... and would like to get rid of it and build something simple that would connect my iphone directly to my car speakers. I don't use the CD or radio much anyway, so no need for a new HU.
I'm fairly new to the diy audio game but I know I'll need some kind of preamp/amp link between the two. So I've been doing some research on a cheap solution and came across this Lepai LP-168HA.
Lepai 2.1 2x40W Amplifier + 1x68W Sub Output 310-308
Will something like that work to power 4 car speakers and a sub? (my sub is an infinity basslink which has its own built in amp). If there is something better that I am overlooking, please let me know.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/car-...irect-amp-no-h-u-sound-quality-questions.html
I have an iphone that I use as an audio source on a daily basis. I currently have an old jvc headunit that is on its last legs... and would like to get rid of it and build something simple that would connect my iphone directly to my car speakers. I don't use the CD or radio much anyway, so no need for a new HU.
I'm fairly new to the diy audio game but I know I'll need some kind of preamp/amp link between the two. So I've been doing some research on a cheap solution and came across this Lepai LP-168HA.
Lepai 2.1 2x40W Amplifier + 1x68W Sub Output 310-308
Will something like that work to power 4 car speakers and a sub? (my sub is an infinity basslink which has its own built in amp). If there is something better that I am overlooking, please let me know.
By the way, here's a quick sketch of what I plan on doing with the iphone mount.
Since I won't be getting a replacement HU, there will be a double din hole on my dash where I plan on designing a faceplate mount. Here's a quick sketch of the design, something simple with analog controls.
I'll probably have the faceplate either cnc'd or lasercut out of a plastic sheet or maybe even plywood.
Since I won't be getting a replacement HU, there will be a double din hole on my dash where I plan on designing a faceplate mount. Here's a quick sketch of the design, something simple with analog controls.
I'll probably have the faceplate either cnc'd or lasercut out of a plastic sheet or maybe even plywood.
Attachments
My friend just installed this Parrot MKi9100:
Parrot - Hands free systems
It came with a small amplifier for speakers, can play music from phone or USB memory stick. There is also a version without the display. For subwoofer he uses separate amplifier, which gets its signal from the rear speaker through Hi-Low converter.
It works independently from headunit.
Parrot - Hands free systems
It came with a small amplifier for speakers, can play music from phone or USB memory stick. There is also a version without the display. For subwoofer he uses separate amplifier, which gets its signal from the rear speaker through Hi-Low converter.
It works independently from headunit.
Don't expect more than 20 watts/ch into 4 ohms (about the same as the JVC head unit's output).
Confirm that it can handle 2 ohms per channel for the full range outputs. Car speakers are typically 4 ohms and 2/channel would be 2 ohms. That may be more than the IC can handle.
If the rear speakers don't need to be in stereo (may not make much difference stereo/mono), you may be able to run them from the sub output on the amp. From the reviews, the crossover is ineffective at best.
The volume on the front of the amp doesn't affect the sub so there's probably no point in having it on the dash panel.
Confirm that it can handle 2 ohms per channel for the full range outputs. Car speakers are typically 4 ohms and 2/channel would be 2 ohms. That may be more than the IC can handle.
If the rear speakers don't need to be in stereo (may not make much difference stereo/mono), you may be able to run them from the sub output on the amp. From the reviews, the crossover is ineffective at best.
The volume on the front of the amp doesn't affect the sub so there's probably no point in having it on the dash panel.
Thanks for the input guys, this research has been eating up more time than anticipated. I should have known from my previous diy audio projects.
Anywho, there is something just like this that is being developed on kickstarter:
Dash - The Smart phone Car Stereo by Paul Lizer — Kickstarter
I may just have to get one of these when it is released. But in the mean time I may just have the dash panel fabricated and hack my jvc headunit's controls.
Anywho, there is something just like this that is being developed on kickstarter:
Dash - The Smart phone Car Stereo by Paul Lizer — Kickstarter
I may just have to get one of these when it is released. But in the mean time I may just have the dash panel fabricated and hack my jvc headunit's controls.
I'd just use an in dash EQ over the Lepai amp. Not only will it give you a volume knob, it will also give you an EQ, Front/Rear and Subwoofer outputs (some do bass/mid/highs instead) and work as a line driver, most also have an AUX for other sources-spare ipod/MP3 player lead/ Sirius Radio Module etc...
Just a 4ch amp and off you go (though personally I'd forget rears unless spending $$$ on processors and L-R)
Lanzar VIBE750s In-Dash 7-Band EQ w/Sub Control 267-821
Just a 4ch amp and off you go (though personally I'd forget rears unless spending $$$ on processors and L-R)
Lanzar VIBE750s In-Dash 7-Band EQ w/Sub Control 267-821
Groog, thanks for the suggestion. I might just go with that route! I found a clarion unit that is about the same price so I will probably grab one.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EZV3T8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&m=A3ADWMNXT7FS32
I also wanted something inexpensive to power my speakers. Should I pair it with this?
Amazon.com: Boss CW350 Chaos Wired 400 Watt 4-Channel High Power Amplifier: DiscountsJungle
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EZV3T8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&m=A3ADWMNXT7FS32
I also wanted something inexpensive to power my speakers. Should I pair it with this?
Amazon.com: Boss CW350 Chaos Wired 400 Watt 4-Channel High Power Amplifier: DiscountsJungle
Yes for the Clarion, no for the Boss!
I'd look for a decent 2nd hand amplifier, craigs list or ebay. You be able to find something that does what it says (RMS power, distortion etc) andbe of better quality for around that money, a little more could score something really nice.
Perry Babin seems to repair loads of amps-maybe he has some uncollected bargains for you?
I'd look for a decent 2nd hand amplifier, craigs list or ebay. You be able to find something that does what it says (RMS power, distortion etc) andbe of better quality for around that money, a little more could score something really nice.
Perry Babin seems to repair loads of amps-maybe he has some uncollected bargains for you?
Two thumbs up, on selling repaired amps. I dont charge to evaluate broken amps but in customer declines repair I will give him or her the of a bench fee or leaving the amp for parts to cover to cover bench fee. Then those amps that are repairable will be repaired in my spare time. This for me also keeps would-be theives from thinking I have a shop full of working resellable amps
The UK isn't that bad afterall!
Man, that's a pisser, my old shop used to offer a repair service (basically sent to the local repairers-allowing them to get on with the repairs instead of dealing with idiots) and we always opperated:
Up front payment of £35+VAT (gets rid of 90% of the time wasters)
3 months to collect anything (repairs or new stock) or it would be sold
Everyone had to sign to agree to the above and we got zero issues-even with the "badmans" of our area. (The Burger Bar Boys and the Johnson Crew: Birmingham Mail - News - Top Stories - Background: How the Burger Bar Boys and the Johnson crew came to the fore I was actually a witness for the prosecution in the case in the article and my evidence saw 4 men convicted for the girls murders
)OP-we've found an amp dealer for you
Awesome, I'll give amc a PM
In the mean time I have been searching around for used amps and may have found one for cheap. Can I get your opinion?
ALPINE MRV-F300 V12
Key Features
Amplifier Type Multi Channels
Channels 4 Channel
Input Voltage 14.4 volt
Bridgeable Bridgable
RMS Power at 2 Ohms 75 W x 4
RMS Power at 4 Ohms 50 W x 4
Performance
Frequency Response 20 Hz - 20 Hz
Signal to Noise Ratio 100 dB
THD at Rated RMS Power 1 %
Crossover / Equalizer
Bass Boost With Bass Boost
Bass Boost Frequency 50 Hz
High - Pass Frequency 400 Hz - 0.4 Hz
Low - Pass Frequency 50 Hz - 50 Hz
Technical Features
MOSFET Circuitry Yes
3 Way Ready Yes
In the mean time I have been searching around for used amps and may have found one for cheap. Can I get your opinion?
ALPINE MRV-F300 V12
Key Features
Amplifier Type Multi Channels
Channels 4 Channel
Input Voltage 14.4 volt
Bridgeable Bridgable
RMS Power at 2 Ohms 75 W x 4
RMS Power at 4 Ohms 50 W x 4
Performance
Frequency Response 20 Hz - 20 Hz
Signal to Noise Ratio 100 dB
THD at Rated RMS Power 1 %
Crossover / Equalizer
Bass Boost With Bass Boost
Bass Boost Frequency 50 Hz
High - Pass Frequency 400 Hz - 0.4 Hz
Low - Pass Frequency 50 Hz - 50 Hz
Technical Features
MOSFET Circuitry Yes
3 Way Ready Yes
These are head units right?
I don't plan on getting another head unit... I wanted to make enough room on my dash for my iphone mount.
The DSX is but the dlss isn't. Your idea is ok but it is kind of like trying to reinvent the wheel. The iPhone makes a horrible headunit by itself. Not enough control, low V output and a ui not designed for car use. Not to mention, you are now reliant on just your phone for all audio. It will work, the idea is cool, but the reality has a large number of drawbacks.
You should also look at the o2 headunit, Xav-601bt and iPhone mimics.
You should also look at the o2 headunit, Xav-601bt and iPhone mimics.
I appreciate your concern with the drawbacks but I have thought about doing this for quite some time, and would really like to pursue this.
For about a year I have even used a cardboard cutout of this design, pushed my headunit backward inside dash and placed the cardboard mount over it, and it worked well for daily use. I just never had the chance to make it more permanent until now.
As far as the iphone's music interface, I used phoenix3200's Music Controls Pro (when my iphone was jailbroken, but there is a similar interface for nonjailbroken iphones called TuTuneMe) which is pretty slick and easy to navigate. And as far as sources go, I normally don't use my CD or radio... as soon as I hop in the car the first thing I do is plug my phone in.
I also currently use a Griffin AutoPilot for charging, lod audio and tactile music controls. I plan on hacking it up to fit the new dash mount design.
I have also seen many many different head units that have the iphone mount. Most of them either do not fit iphones with cases or they are a couple hundred dollars more than what I'd like to spend. And most importantly, I love to DIY so why not make my own custom dash mount?
Oh and by the way, I couldn't find much information on the DLSS, could you link me some sources?
Here is the info on the DLSS.
Auto Audio System | Digital Link Sound System | XDP-PK1000 | Sony USA
You could just hack apart the cradle to make your mount. You then would have bass, treble, fade, balance, charging, a 4 channel amp, time alignment, a sub amp, sub and a remote
That would be one way to go about what you want to do.
Here is how I would do this if I wanted to do the same setup, im not sure what budget you are trying to stay in though.
pure i-20 dock, hacked to make your mount. I would then send the digital output to an Audison bit one or bit ten D (you could do the same with analog, skip the pure and go into a regular bit ten). I would then use the Audison to setup my crossovers, EQ and time alignment and make the DRC part of the dash mount for sub, fade and volume. For amps, I would use any good used amps I could get my hands on. I may have some laying around if you need any.
If I wanted to do this cheaply I would use some sort of preamp setup for volume control. You could find a design on this site and build it yourself. An in dash EQ may give you some features but generally they degrade the sound, unless you find a really nice quality one from back when they were made properly. I wonder if a minty boost could be made to work?
Auto Audio System | Digital Link Sound System | XDP-PK1000 | Sony USA
You could just hack apart the cradle to make your mount. You then would have bass, treble, fade, balance, charging, a 4 channel amp, time alignment, a sub amp, sub and a remote
That would be one way to go about what you want to do.
Here is how I would do this if I wanted to do the same setup, im not sure what budget you are trying to stay in though.
pure i-20 dock, hacked to make your mount. I would then send the digital output to an Audison bit one or bit ten D (you could do the same with analog, skip the pure and go into a regular bit ten). I would then use the Audison to setup my crossovers, EQ and time alignment and make the DRC part of the dash mount for sub, fade and volume. For amps, I would use any good used amps I could get my hands on. I may have some laying around if you need any.
If I wanted to do this cheaply I would use some sort of preamp setup for volume control. You could find a design on this site and build it yourself. An in dash EQ may give you some features but generally they degrade the sound, unless you find a really nice quality one from back when they were made properly. I wonder if a minty boost could be made to work?
Old thread, But I also question this.. Can I plug in my ipod to my car amps? I have a Rockford Punch 800 a2 and a small old school sony 4 channel 50 x 4. I do it to test out my amps most of the time instead of actually using a car stereo (which i don't have either). Would it work out good or just I invest in a car stereo head unit?
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