I have this Kicker amp. Its powers up and has green light, the relay clicks. I have checked the PTs they are not shorted. There is rail voltage 119volts. Nothing is burnt. dont have a O-scope or a temp probe. dont know which transistors are the audio drivers on this amp. Check for cold solder joints on all the boards. Nothing. All help is highly appreaciated. I have read the other posts on this amp and have went as far as I know how to with the limited knowledge that I have.
So your are getting signal through the relay? Check both input and outputs of the relay to make sure the signal is the same.
Sometimes the ground break off of the RCA's (if its the RCA jack is solder to the board they usually break from force). If its the RCA's with the wire to the board than those last a lot longer than the others.
There is a fuse on the the old kickers (cant remember which models) that was on the ground trace of the RCA's once that one break your input signal is not complete and the output is very very low or non.
Sometimes the ground break off of the RCA's (if its the RCA jack is solder to the board they usually break from force). If its the RCA's with the wire to the board than those last a lot longer than the others.
There is a fuse on the the old kickers (cant remember which models) that was on the ground trace of the RCA's once that one break your input signal is not complete and the output is very very low or non.
ground is good on rca's. All I could do is ohm through the relay for continuity and it passed. Called an old friend that owned the old repair shop where I worked and he said he had a o-scope that I could have for all the good service I gave them. Scope will be picked up this weekend. All these checks are good points to check, Still brainstorming. On one note I noticed that the FETS on the power supply are all of mixed batches. I seem to be the first into this amp so I guess that Kicker uses all of different batches not matched sets. Hmmm. I guess they work just maybe not as efficient as they could.
Have a used scope coming this weekend from a old boss. He told me I could have it. All I have now is the latest and greatest multi-meter from Radio Shack. cat#22-812.
It has PC interface. It will tell you hz. and width and duty. also checks hFE. Not a bad meter for the money.
Sorry for all the mis-spelling not the greatest. Will make sure when it counts though.
I used to fix TV's long ago the 90's when things were simpler. My digital knowledge sucks. I hopefully soon will have your tutorial Perry. So far I have used your online vers as a refresher. Very knowledgeable. Basic Amplifier Repair
It has PC interface. It will tell you hz. and width and duty. also checks hFE. Not a bad meter for the money.
Sorry for all the mis-spelling not the greatest. Will make sure when it counts though.
I used to fix TV's long ago the 90's when things were simpler. My digital knowledge sucks. I hopefully soon will have your tutorial Perry. So far I have used your online vers as a refresher. Very knowledgeable. Basic Amplifier Repair
I have that RS meter. It's OK but I never use it. The frequency counter has trouble locking onto noisy waveforms so don't rely on it.
You don't need much digital circuit knowledge for most car amps.
When you get the scope, look for rail to rail oscillation at about 80kHz on the output transistors.
For now, confirm that you have regulated voltage on the power supply pins of the op-amps and on the marked pins of the class D driver board.
You don't need much digital circuit knowledge for most car amps.
When you get the scope, look for rail to rail oscillation at about 80kHz on the output transistors.
For now, confirm that you have regulated voltage on the power supply pins of the op-amps and on the marked pins of the class D driver board.
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