Lanzar Opti Drive TMS 200

Anothertime · 1st March 2012, 11:39 PM

Greatings Everyone!

Been reading tons of Fourm post, but first time to post. I have a lot of older amps that I need to get fixed. Will start with the Lanzar. Thank you all in advance for any help!

I have a older Opti Drive TMS 200 that will not power on. Poped the bottom and did discover a burn on the Q32 and Q31 IRFZ40's. My question is if I just replace this pair, is there anything else I need to replace. (possible cause of the burnt IRDZ40's ) Next question is where can I find the replacement Transisters from?

Pictures are included. Amp has not been touch other then removing the bottom and the hold down with the gound.

Thank you.
Anothertime

Perry Babin · 1st March 2012, 11:56 PM

Before you begin, you should know that the boards on these amplifiers is VERY delicate. Unless you're VERY careful, there is no way to prevent damaging the pads and traces.

There are 8 IRFZ40s. All 8 need to be replaced. I'd use IRFZ44s. Any version of the IRFZ44 that are not fully encapsulated will work.

It likely has defective driver transistors also. Remove the IRFZ40s and measure the DC voltage on the gate pad for each of the IRFZ40s.

Anothertime · 2nd March 2012, 04:58 PM

I used a flush cutter and removed all 8 of the IRFZ40's. But before powering up the amp, went over full board again. Found a burnt resister and cap. Do you know what the value would be and if I will need to replace an IC?

Thanks again for your help!

Perry Babin · 2nd March 2012, 05:11 PM

The resistor that's just above the 7 in 'U7' is the same value. I think it's a 22 ohm.

The cap probably isn't damaged but the value is on the top of it.

The ICs have likely survived.

Replace the 22 ohm resistor, power the amp up and measure the DC voltage on the gate leg of each of the power supply FETs. They should all be approximately the same. Post the voltage if they are the same. If one or more is different by more than a fraction of a volt, post the voltage for those and the transistors where the voltage is different.

Anothertime · 2nd March 2012, 09:18 PM

The Local Radio Shack store only had the 22-Ohm resistore in 1/2 watt. (hate they do not carry good parts anymore) All the other places closed and are gone. Will this be ok to put in?

Thanks
Anothertime

ultra · 2nd March 2012, 09:52 PM

If you are looking for the value of R56, its a 1K resistor.
I do have a kind of schematic for this amp, so if you need anything,
let me know.

Anothertime · 2nd March 2012, 10:12 PM

The Burnt resistor is between the R56 and the C27. I can see that the part number ended in a 3. The rest is covered with melted plastic from the cap.

Anothertime · 2nd March 2012, 10:19 PM

Also the resistor in question does goto pin 14 of the big IC - SG3525A W992A9422.

ultra · 2nd March 2012, 10:29 PM

If is is connected to pin 14 of the 3525, then its a 22R as Perry correctly says, and the footprint is R73.
R72 should be the same (it is connected to pin 11 of 3525).

Anothertime · 4th March 2012, 05:23 AM

Got the Resistor replaced with a 22 ohm, powered up and Q52, Q27 ~ Q29 are at 1.52 v and the other side of the amp Q53 and Q30~ Q32 are at 1.50 v.

1st March 2012, 11:56 PM	#2
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	Before you begin, you should know that the boards on these amplifiers is VERY delicate. Unless you're VERY careful, there is no way to prevent damaging the pads and traces. There are 8 IRFZ40s. All 8 need to be replaced. I'd use IRFZ44s. Any version of the IRFZ44 that are not fully encapsulated will work. It likely has defective driver transistors also. Remove the IRFZ40s and measure the DC voltage on the gate pad for each of the IRFZ40s. __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links

2nd March 2012, 05:11 PM	#4
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	The resistor that's just above the 7 in 'U7' is the same value. I think it's a 22 ohm. The cap probably isn't damaged but the value is on the top of it. The ICs have likely survived. Replace the 22 ohm resistor, power the amp up and measure the DC voltage on the gate leg of each of the power supply FETs. They should all be approximately the same. Post the voltage if they are the same. If one or more is different by more than a fraction of a volt, post the voltage for those and the transistors where the voltage is different. __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links

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2nd March 2012, 09:18 PM	#5
Anothertime diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2011	The Local Radio Shack store only had the 22-Ohm resistore in 1/2 watt. (hate they do not carry good parts anymore) All the other places closed and are gone. Will this be ok to put in? Thanks Anothertime

2nd March 2012, 09:52 PM	#6
ultra diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Athens	If you are looking for the value of R56, its a 1K resistor. I do have a kind of schematic for this amp, so if you need anything, let me know.

2nd March 2012, 10:19 PM	#8
Anothertime diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2011	Also the resistor in question does goto pin 14 of the big IC - SG3525A W992A9422.

2nd March 2012, 10:29 PM	#9
ultra diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Athens	If is is connected to pin 14 of the 3525, then its a 22R as Perry correctly says, and the footprint is R73. R72 should be the same (it is connected to pin 11 of 3525).

4th March 2012, 05:23 AM	#10
Anothertime diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2011	Got the Resistor replaced with a 22 ohm, powered up and Q52, Q27 ~ Q29 are at 1.52 v and the other side of the amp Q53 and Q30~ Q32 are at 1.50 v.