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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
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I've had the JL Audio 500/5 for 6yrs or so, been fine all along.
I originally installed it. This week, listening rather loudly, left-front channel got crackly. The audio signal is still there and identifiable, but is very distorted. I ruled out the speaker, so I'm back to the JL amp. I haven't pulled the amp out yet to peek inside. Just wondering what/where to start to look? Thanks for any help! |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: californi
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try switching the input rca's at the amp for the front channels. If the problem transfers to the opposite side I would suspect the indash stereo.
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Try operating all controls through their entire range to see if that make the defective channel play properly. If that doesn't help and swapping the RCAs doesn't help, pull the bottom cover and power up the amp. Are all 3 of the LEDs lit on all 4 of the driver boards?
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
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Checking back in here- weird thing is that the problem 'healed' itself for a few days. Things went back to normal for several days.
Then last night the same problem came back. I pulled the head unit and swapped RCA cables around. When the FL speaker "distorts" it is at a reduced output. Clipped signal maybe? Problem is always FL speaker, but for a few minutes last night I could swear I heard the FR speaker start to distort as well. Are the FL and FR amp outputs tied together in any way inside the amp? Front speaker lines go to a Polk 2way crossover modules, and then to the upper door mounted tweeters and the lower door speakers. Speaker/tweeter check out fine with another source. I got back to where the amp is mounted, and I see the "Low Ohm" light is illuminated. Shorted speaker wiring? Hopefully in the next day or two I can get to the amp mounts to check wiring and play with all controls, and pull the amp if needed for further inspection. Last edited by Black Frog; 6th March 2012 at 03:38 AM. |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
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Quote:
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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When it's playing low or distorted, are all 3 of the LEDs lit on all 4 of the driver boards?
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
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I'll look for this next. Top half the amp (vertical mount) is open to air ventilation but I can't see the lights very well. I'll need to remove a trim panel to get more information.
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
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Last night it was below freezing here in Wisconsin.
Audio system was fine this morning for about 20 min of my morning drive. Listening at low volumes the whole time, I then heard a mild "pop" sound and the F/L channel went back to the distorted and lowered output. Temperature related I'm thinking?.... |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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When it's playing low or distorted, are all 3 of the LEDs lit on all 4 of the driver boards?
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
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Quote:
Hopefully tomorrow I can get enough time to remove trim panels so that I can get full access to the amp. I'll report back with your answer. THANK YOU!! |
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