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-   -   Precision Power art series blowing fuse (http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/car-audio/206909-precision-power-art-series-blowing-fuse.html)

ahardb0dy 17th February 2012 03:11 AM

Precision Power art series blowing fuse
 
Hello all, I have a PPI 5075DX amplifier I'm using to power to 6.5" door speakers and a PPI 2200 amplifier running a Kicker full range box as a sub with 2 -12's, amps are crossed over using Kicker 3 way cross over, head unit is a Sony, both amps and crossover are connected to same fused distribution block for power and a distribution block for the grounds, This morning had stereo on low and all of a sudden I got a squealing noise thru front speakers and I could hear alternator whine which I normally do not hear, few seconds later fuse for the 5075DX blew, tried another fuse, same thing. Got home from work and pulled the 5075 from the car and hooked it up to my power supply and with no input signal fuse will not blow.

Any idea on what may be wrong? I am not original owner of the 5075 but have owned it about 4-5 years and it is in like new condition. Thanks

Perry Babin 17th February 2012 06:02 AM

That sounds like you have a speaker wire grounding out in the doors or somewhere else on the speaker wire.

ahardb0dy 17th February 2012 08:28 AM

Thanks for the reply.

I should have added, after I removed the 5075 amp, I connected the other amp to the high pass output of my x-over and tried the stereo and it sounded ok (no squealing minus the highs as I have the tweeters in the full range box disconnected), and the amp didn't blow a fuse, so that indicates to me something wrong with the 5075 amplifier.

Perry Babin 17th February 2012 09:08 AM

Not necessarily. If one of the amps uses a positive for signal and the other uses a negative for signal, the second amp may not have the same problem. It's also possible that the short is intermittent.

Of course, it is possible that something is wrong with the first amp.

ahardb0dy 18th February 2012 02:10 AM

My friend made me realize today that the way I was troubleshooting doesn't tell me everything I need to know, What I did by switching the amps just tells me that the head unit and x-over are working ok and the problem may still be the front speakers or the wiring. So tomorrow I'm going to connect the output from the 2200 amp to the speaker plug that was plugged into the 5075 to see if the front speakers sound normal or not. I'm hoping the problem is with the wiring as I don't want to lose my 5075. That may explain why when I connected the 5075 to my power supply with no input or speakers connected that the amp did not blow a fuse, sound correct? Thanks

ahardb0dy 18th February 2012 08:35 PM

Ok, so a few minutes ago I connected the speaker wires from the 2200 amp to the speaker plug from the 5075 and the front speakers work fine, so I guess this indicates a problem with the 5075, unless the front speakers and wiring have an intermittent problem. Going to grab another amp from my storage and wire it in to see if problem comes back (intermittent) or does not (amp), thanks

ahardb0dy 19th February 2012 05:40 PM

Anyone have any ideas on what to look at or check? thanks

Perry Babin 21st February 2012 05:42 AM

I think you have to determine definitively whether it's the amp or the wiring before you start checking things. After you know which it is, you will have to duplicate the problem to find it.

ahardb0dy 21st February 2012 08:20 AM

Hello, I think it's def an amp problem. Unless an RCA cable could cause the amp to do that? I removed the amp and installed another one in it's place with a different RCA cable and so far everything is working fine. On my 45 minute drive to work and back today will see if problem comes back, I don't think it will, ran some errands yesterday with replacement amp installed and all was fine.

The amp that blew it's fuse still has the RCA cable connected to it that I was using, think it's possible the RCA cable could cause the noise and the amp to blow it's fuse? If so how do I test the cable? I do have a multimeter. Thanks

Perry Babin 21st February 2012 09:44 AM

1 Attachment(s)
The shield should should read 0 ohms from one end to the other. The center conductor should read the same.

This test can be misleading when testing with a multimeter because the connection between the meter probes and the cable isn't always 100% and the problem in the cable is intermittent. To make this test reasonably reliable, you have to have two known good RCA females that you'd solder to the meter probes. With the cables plugged into those jacks, you could move the cables around to see if you can find an intermittent connection.

Some of these amps had a problem with the shield on the input RCA jacks breaking away from the frame. This could cause some strange problems.


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