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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: kansas
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I have a JL Audio 1000/1 that has evidence of some moisture damage. (corrosion on the bottom of break out board above the speaker wire terminals) When the RCA inputs are connected there is no output but a screeching noise (Power light is on.) But when you connect the head unit to the Preamp Output section and set the switch to fullrange it has an output but has a motorboat sound. I am assuming that this is a filter problem since the outputs work. Any suggestions?
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Do you see any green corrosion around any of the feed throughs in the area where you see water damage? You'll need a powerful lighted magnifying glass.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: kansas
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I will look tonight and post my findings. Thank you Perry.
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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The green in the via and damaged traces like the examples are what you're looking for. These are extremely small so you'll have to look carefully.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: kansas
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Yes there is green corrosion on the feed through's above the Output terminal on the U1 board.
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: kansas
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A little better view of the corroded area.
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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If that via isn't open, it will open soon. You need to make a reliable connection from one side of the board to the other. The easiest is to simply use a jumper wire around the back edge of the board. A better way is to drill the via with a #80 drill bit and insert a jumper wire, soldering it to bare copper on each side of the board. If you're going to use a #80 drill bit, buy extras and expect to break several before you realize how fragile they are.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: kansas
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There are a few via's in this area. Am wondering what the IC's on top are for and if there is possibly a shorted one due to the moisture. The board seems to have a good coat of con formal coating on it. The transistors check ok, resistors are within tolerance, in this part.
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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I think those are for the input circuit for the amp.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: kansas
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Sorry It took me so long to reply with a big thank you. You are the man Perry, it worked fine after I drilled and jumpered about 25 Via’s.. Was a lot of green corrosion coming out of them and I got a mini Microscope with a light then I could see the opened traces that had corroded on the via's.
Thank you Perry |
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