Amp powers up
no fault light
it does get a little warm, but then again it's a class A so that's understandable
but i can't get any sound from it
measured the left and right outputs
both measure around 0.04-0.06v
outputs look clean
Power circuitry (looks likes it repaired?)
Resistor R156 is blown (below the 2 black capacitors)
ideas?
no fault light
it does get a little warm, but then again it's a class A so that's understandable
but i can't get any sound from it
measured the left and right outputs
both measure around 0.04-0.06v
outputs look clean
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Power circuitry (looks likes it repaired?)
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Resistor R156 is blown (below the 2 black capacitors)
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
ideas?
Last two pictures near the bottom just left of center I see R156 is burnt completely up. I would start by replacing that component and looking around for other failed components. I lack any docs on this model so I can not tell you the value of R156. perhaps a closer area picture I could try and see what it does, and make a educated guess....
Looking around a bit I am inclined to think the burnt resistor is the ground connection resistor for the two different grounds and is likely a 10 ohm 1 watt resistor...hope this helps some...
Looking around a bit I am inclined to think the burnt resistor is the ground connection resistor for the two different grounds and is likely a 10 ohm 1 watt resistor...hope this helps some...
Last edited:
Some SoundStream amplifiers had revisions done to them. Thats why you see extra resistors by the transformer.
Those resistors are humping, lol. But my only concern would be why not replace them with a higher wattage resistor or value?
That R156 looks to me like a 1/2watt 10ohm resistor but not sure. Just judgin by the winds on it.
Those resistors are humping, lol. But my only concern would be why not replace them with a higher wattage resistor or value?
That R156 looks to me like a 1/2watt 10ohm resistor but not sure. Just judgin by the winds on it.
that appears to match my 1000s, even component name. if it is the same, then that resistor is tied between the common of the rails, and output rca shields, and all that entails. if you look in your top pic, you can see the 3 jumper traces between left and right output, just above the terminals. it's the center one, and jumps strait across to the left where you can see it feed the output rcas and continue under the row of resistors/caps. what exactly happened? another amp running of the output rcas?
True, it however is a high bias amplifier with a pretty high idle current for a car amplifier, and yes they run warm even at idle.
I agree with the person mentioning the switches. Apply some contact cleaner spray in there. They do cause these kinds of problems. Especially the 2 / 5 volt gains switches are problematic.
You should definitely apply some solder to (refresh) the solder joints of the perpendicular driver PCB's. Might as well do the control boards while you're at it. These very often cause problems like no sound.
just an update-
i got a wild hair to start digging out all m soundstreams, lol... anyways, i was looking for revisions/difference between the reference s/sx, and i see my verry first soundstream. i traded it away, and then got it back shortly after blown. the biggest thing i saw, is that the power supply section is changed to pretty much the same as what you have going on there. that part you are wondering about as a repair, looks to be a revision from the 5watt 1ohm resistors, so you have now basically 10watt 1ohm resistors as it sits, which is what i have in the sx. same omitted ts2, etc. more curious, is the same damage, and then some. i can tell an obvious arced out crater of a dry connection around the inductor, which i believe is likely the main root cause. i know the guy abused the heck out of the amp, too. anyways, the left 4 fets, resistors, and driver (q10;11;12;13;14) are all just as well cooked as that resistor. all of the soundstreams similar that i have seen, even the usa amps use a 10ohm/1w resistor, save for the rub1002, which does not use one, just a strait connection between the 2. furthermore, that doesn't just feed the output rca shield, but is basically the "ground" or common of just about all the preamp sections/circuits, so i imagine that you would not get any sound ever without that resistor in place. first thing i would do, since you can still power it up to idle, is go over the power supply circiut and rail voltages to make sure they are working correctly and switching. good luck, and let us know. hope this helps some.
-Heath H-
i got a wild hair to start digging out all m soundstreams, lol... anyways, i was looking for revisions/difference between the reference s/sx, and i see my verry first soundstream. i traded it away, and then got it back shortly after blown. the biggest thing i saw, is that the power supply section is changed to pretty much the same as what you have going on there. that part you are wondering about as a repair, looks to be a revision from the 5watt 1ohm resistors, so you have now basically 10watt 1ohm resistors as it sits, which is what i have in the sx. same omitted ts2, etc. more curious, is the same damage, and then some. i can tell an obvious arced out crater of a dry connection around the inductor, which i believe is likely the main root cause. i know the guy abused the heck out of the amp, too. anyways, the left 4 fets, resistors, and driver (q10;11;12;13;14) are all just as well cooked as that resistor. all of the soundstreams similar that i have seen, even the usa amps use a 10ohm/1w resistor, save for the rub1002, which does not use one, just a strait connection between the 2. furthermore, that doesn't just feed the output rca shield, but is basically the "ground" or common of just about all the preamp sections/circuits, so i imagine that you would not get any sound ever without that resistor in place. first thing i would do, since you can still power it up to idle, is go over the power supply circiut and rail voltages to make sure they are working correctly and switching. good luck, and let us know. hope this helps some.
-Heath H-
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.