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Old 10th January 2012, 02:12 AM   #11
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Figured I would replace them, but ill check them with a DMM to make sure they still hold the same ohm value. If they do Ill toss them back in. Just seems right to replace parts that smoke up. I'm a mechanic and work on h-60b helos for the navy, so its natural for me to replace parts that look damaged or worn, lol.
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Old 10th January 2012, 02:22 AM   #12
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Location: Louisiana
A bit different type of repair. An amp isn't going to drop out of the air from 10,000ft.
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Old 10th January 2012, 02:32 AM   #13
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Hmm, good point.

Ok, replacing the transistors so heres a pic of it.
Click the image to open in full size.

Thinking one of these-
Digi-Key - IRF540ZPBF-ND (Manufacturer - IRF540ZPBF)
or
Digi-Key - IRF540PBF-ND (Manufacturer - IRF540PBF)
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Old 10th January 2012, 02:38 AM   #14
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Location: Louisiana
I'd recommend the non-Z version. It's best to use the original part number unless there is a known reason not to do so.
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Old 10th January 2012, 02:43 AM   #15
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sounds good. I know I am full of questions, but what difference does the "Z" make? I like to understand the parts i replace, mechanic or electric.
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Old 10th January 2012, 02:44 AM   #16
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It's just a different version of the same basic part. In general it performs the same but sometimes minor differences make a big difference (i.e. IRF540N in place of the IRF540 in Rockford amps).
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Old 10th January 2012, 02:50 AM   #17
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Oah, and is there anything else I should check before ordering the parts for this amp and the JL?
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Old 15th January 2012, 01:39 AM   #18
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Replaced the transistors and shes working on bench, so tomorrow I will hook her up and see if theres any problems on putting power through it.
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