Tweeter To Match W/ Mids In 2-Way Configuration? - diyAudio
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Old 3rd January 2012, 06:51 PM   #1
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Default Tweeter To Match W/ Mids In 2-Way Configuration?

Picked up a set of HAT Clarus C6 & in need of a Tweeter. The C6 Mids will be mounted in my Front Doors (IB). I do not have Specs on the C6 Mids yet.

How does one go about choosing a set of Tweeters for their Mid(Woofers)?

I know a 3-way configuration works like this:

MID = MID/BASS LPF 160 kHz HPF 3.2 kHz
MB = LOWS LPF 53 Hz HPF 200 Hz

How does a 2-Way Work?

I will be mounting my C6 Mids "Off-Axis" so I take it I need to see the "off axis" response graph to figure out what they could cross at correct? Quick Question on the 3-way: Do you really need a HPF on the tweeter or can you just let it rolll off naturally? How about a Mid(woofer) in a 2-way configuration: do you have to use A HPF or can you just let them roll up naturally.

Let's say I will be doing all of my "active" x-overs on my amplifiers. WHy would I need an amplifier that is Bandpassable? I mean couldn't I just run my Mids W/ a LPF and let them roll up naturally? And than W/ the Tweeters just run a LPF or do LPF's typically do not go up that high?

As far as tweeters go, I was looking at PE & madisound, but I am unaware on how to choose a tweeter according to my application?

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Old 6th February 2012, 09:18 AM   #2
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Ha, anyone know?
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Old 6th February 2012, 02:24 PM   #3
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Never used the product myself, but the manual claims +/- 3dB from 50Hz-9Khz. Scott recommends the tweeters play from 4k up in posts I have seen. So any tweeter that's capable of playing down to 4K should be fine.
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Old 6th February 2012, 03:51 PM   #4
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Location: Anchorage AK
As far as i know, you really have the flexibility to choose tweeters at suite your taste and budget. look at sensitivity and compare with your mid if going passive is an option you are concidering. Otherwise, if you are going to have a separate tweeter channel/amp, then that would not matter as much, save for looking more at the power range you are using.
2-way configurastion simply works like many coaxial full-range speakers. you have your high, and then you have your mid, which can include the low, as far as the mid is capable of responding. if you have a sub, then it would still be techn ically 3-way, but refered to as a 2-way stage. there is not just one configuration for 2-way. it could include a small mid capable of high end extension, and as low as 500hz, or so, and one mid-woofer, or one mid, or mid-woofer and a tweeter crossed much higher. it really depends on what you are looking at. the main point is that 2-way is just that. 2 drivers, and the signal is split 2 ways.
About "letting it roll-off" for both the mid and tweeters- it may naturally "roll-off" below the response level, but you have to remember that they will still be passing power, even if they are not responding with sound, or have low output. this results in not only undue wear/strain, but also a much lower total rms power handling. any non-responsive power used a bit below total f/s or f/r is usually higher power than that within the response range, and not detuned on an unadulterated signal. when crossed over, active, or passive, you greatly increase your power handling. this is not unlike the subsonic function on most sub amps.( and you can even use the subsonic feature on your mids/mb many times to keep it in range, allowing the sub to take over lowers)
for the "band-passable" i must say that i am not an sq nut, not to say that i don't appreciate it. that being said, i do understand where the band-pass function comes in. if your mid is playing higher frequencies designated for the tweeters (which they often do, just poorly) then you will have a gain overlap, and peaks in those frequencies, as a result. if you were to band-pass the mid to cut out the frequencies otherwise well taken care of, then this is generally not an issue.
for tweeter choice, well, i just pick one that seems good to me, usually at a deal, but a brand i have heard of, without bad review, and silk dome where possible. it's in now way my field, lol.
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Old 6th February 2012, 10:33 PM   #5
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Thank You for the responses

How do sensativity play a role? & is this only important when going passive?

What is Gain Overlap?

If I do end up going W/ a fully 3-way active front stage, how am I suppose to cross? In my initial question, I stated "starting X-Over Points." As you can see, there's no overlap in frequencies which brings me to my question: Is there ever suppose to be overlap?

I sold my HAT C6 Mids along W/ my peerless 830883 Drivers. LOL I can not make up my mind. I am eyeing down the Peerless HDS Midranges for a 3-way configuration. As far as the "Lows" go, the exodus anarchys look beefy, & will most likely end up W/ a set of small format tweeters. Those HDS Midranges go pretty high.

^I am worried though. My Mid in my 3 way configuration will either be located in my kicks or pillars depending upon my PLD's. Now in a 3 way configuration, your mid is your "point source" correct? I know your Point source should be located as far away as possible, but not sure whether to go off or on axis with it?

I am very accustomed W/ fiberglass & my options are near endless so theres no restraints
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Old 7th February 2012, 03:18 AM   #6
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Anchorage AK
I do not believe i can really give you the best answers when it comes to more advanced sq. technicals, just what i do know about it. for orientation, i have always stuck to trying to keep the components as close as possible together, or at least on an even plane. I do not know enough to know individual drivers and how they respond. "gain overlap" may not even be the correct term, but I can explain what i mean. when you have 2 drivers of different size playing the same frequencies for a range, that range is going to be louder than the frequencies above and below. however, it is the same, and what you use when you set the cross-over slopes. as one driver is dropping off in db, the next one is picking up to blend the transition.
There are ways of working around sensitivity difference, depending on your equipment. going active, you can simply use the gain adjustment. with a passive, some cross-overs include a jumper setting that can adjust the sensitivity, usually in 3, or 6db increments. come to think of it- some tweeters do actually have a capacitor attached inline to filter out lower frequencies. And, of course, there are several different active equalizers and head unit equalizer settings that adjust the total response. Try to get and read the specs on your exact drivers to decide where you want to cross them over, and/or what the manufacturer suggests. Many do include a response curve, or it is available online. I hope that someone more knowledgeable and experienced can chime in. i do know enough to build and adjust a decent sounding setup, and get a sound that pleases me, but in no means an expert. i just do not want to lead you the wrong way, or give bad advise.
-Heath H-
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Old 7th February 2012, 11:34 AM   #7
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There are pro's and cons to any mounting locations for mids. Some prefer kicks-other report rainbowing and favour the dash/a-pillars. On/Off Axis depends on the driver. Kicks/Dash can depend on the driver too-does it need and enclosure?

In the UK it's not common to see kick builds: very few of us drive autos so there's an extra peddle in the way, those that do drive autos still have their accelarator peddle in the way of placing a midbass down there, so midbass in doors and mid/tweet on the dash is more common here.

Mounting the mid/tweet dashtop or higher also benefits from 0 obstruction to the listener, in the kicks and knees get in the way.

I'd have to say if you need to ask these questions you may be better off sticking to a 2-way +sub to begin with-otherwise you need to do a lot of reading and the car subforum here is largely amp repairs from what I have seen-try diyma for car only threads.
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