groundpounder3000

timwebb · 2nd January 2012, 09:59 PM

i got this to repair. just looking at it i noticed the output driver card was worked on. but two ic's were replaced and dont know if there right...this is how i got it. u1 and u2 have been changed

timwebb · 3rd January 2012, 12:28 AM

i cant find a data sheet on the ic. d3 is shorted, i couldnt find a data sheet on it either.

Perry Babin · 3rd January 2012, 12:57 AM

The ICs are right (IRS21844S or IR21844S will work).

Did you remove D3 to confirm that it was shorted?

timwebb · 3rd January 2012, 01:10 AM

no i just tested d1 with diode check and it tested fine. d3 shorted with diode check. u2 also got hot when powered up.

Perry Babin · 3rd January 2012, 01:21 AM

If the outputs failed, the driver IC that was driving the failed outputs has almost certainly failed as well.

timwebb · 3rd January 2012, 02:08 AM

i got the amp with no output transistors in it.but from what i see that looks to be the cause.
i can tell by the soldering on the ic's that they have been replaced. some of the solder tabs are missing for the pins that aren't used.

timwebb · 3rd January 2012, 03:51 AM

d3 is good. im looking for the short now.

Perry Babin · 10:32 AM

Pins 8 and 14 are likely shorted inside the IC.

Edit:
Sorry, that' should read, 7 and 14.

timwebb · 4th January 2012, 12:47 AM

i was looking for a data sheet on the ic but cant find one.

mike49504 · 4th January 2012, 12:55 AM

http://www.irf.com/product-info/data...ata/ir2184.pdf

3rd January 2012, 12:57 AM	#3
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	The ICs are right (IRS21844S or IR21844S will work). Did you remove D3 to confirm that it was shorted? __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links

3rd January 2012, 01:21 AM	#5
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	If the outputs failed, the driver IC that was driving the failed outputs has almost certainly failed as well. __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links

3rd January 2012, 10:15 AM	#8
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	Pins 8 and 14 are likely shorted inside the IC. Edit: Sorry, that' should read, 7 and 14. __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links Last edited by Perry Babin; 3rd January 2012 at 10:32 AM.

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3rd January 2012, 01:10 AM	#4
timwebb diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: memphis tn	no i just tested d1 with diode check and it tested fine. d3 shorted with diode check. u2 also got hot when powered up.

3rd January 2012, 02:08 AM	#6
timwebb diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: memphis tn	i got the amp with no output transistors in it.but from what i see that looks to be the cause. i can tell by the soldering on the ic's that they have been replaced. some of the solder tabs are missing for the pins that aren't used.

3rd January 2012, 03:51 AM	#7
timwebb diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: memphis tn	d3 is good. im looking for the short now.

4th January 2012, 12:47 AM	#9
timwebb diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: memphis tn	i was looking for a data sheet on the ic but cant find one.

4th January 2012, 12:55 AM	#10
mike49504 diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2006	http://www.irf.com/product-info/data...ata/ir2184.pdf