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#21 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Estonia
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Without the solder bridge:
Transistor: E:-0,08V C:9,70V B:-1,43V Diode connected to emitter of that transistor: -0,08V and 0V Diode connected to base of that transistor: -1,43V and 10,56V With solder bridge: E:-0,04V C:7,31V B:0V Diode connected to emitter of that transistor: -0,04V and 0V Diode connected to base of that transistor: 8,63V and 0V
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Tools: C1-76 o-scope, Weller WHS40, Mastech MAS830L multimeter, Mastech MY6243 LC meter, 16A supply Last edited by Mote; 10th January 2012 at 03:37 PM. |
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#22 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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The negative voltage would seem to indicate that there is a problem because all of this is on the primary side of the power supply and there are no negative voltage produced there.
The base of the transistor needs to be pulled up. The 150k resistor should be charging the cap and driving the base higher. Confirm that it's within tolerance and that you have approximately 12v on the end that's not connected to the base of the transistor.
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Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#23 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Estonia
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Damn, I should have caught it earlier. 150k resistor reads open on board and out of the board with multimeter at 200k and 2M ohm setting.
Ill replace it after work and see what happens.
__________________
Tools: C1-76 o-scope, Weller WHS40, Mastech MAS830L multimeter, Mastech MY6243 LC meter, 16A supply |
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#24 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Estonia
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Replaced resistor and amp works without solder bridges. Thanks Perry.
__________________
Tools: C1-76 o-scope, Weller WHS40, Mastech MAS830L multimeter, Mastech MY6243 LC meter, 16A supply |
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