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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
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In this amp, the power supply will not turn on correctly. Upon close observation, I find C312, a cap with 104 on it's back split in half and blown wide open (Two halves pointing straight up). I beleive these are 104Pf, or something of the sort. Please correct me if I am incorrect.
C312 is right next to the KA3525A The KA3525A; Pin 1: 0.013 Pin 2: 5.07 Pin 3: 0.026 Pin 4: 0.218 Pin 5: 2.117 Pin 6: 3.587 Pin 7: 2.1 Pin 8: 4.38 Pin 9: 5.52 Pin 10: 3.227 Pin 11: 0.015 Pin 12: 0.012 * Pin 13: 12.28 Pin 14: 0.015 Pin 15: 12.29 Pin 16: 5.07 *One Pad from C312 is connected to Pin 12 of the 3525 and also Pin 4 of the KIA393P. The other pad from C312 is connected to Pin 3 of the Kia 393P. The C312 may be connected elsewhere, however I have not removed the board from the sync yet. If its just the C312 that is bad I can likely replace it without removal. Thanks in advance |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
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KIA393P
Pin 1: 10.32 Pin 2: 2.53 Pin 3: 5.00 * Pin 4: 0.014 * Pin 5: 10.60 Pin 6: 2.528 Pin 7: 3.668 Pin 8: 5.07 |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
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C312 is also connected to the Anode of D 308 which is testing OK in circuit.
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Can you post a photo of the area of the board where the cap is located?
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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You're right. It's marked 104.
Find the diode that has its anode connected to pin 10 of the 3525. Is it leaky or shorted?
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
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Thats D306. It was measuring a little tough on the board so I lifted up one side for checking. It appears to be leaking as it measures millions of ohms in both direction. It has markings, its a 16v ZD.
Can I use a 1N4744, 15v Zener? Also for C312, is that 104pF or 10,000pF / 10uF? Last edited by Dr Zeus; 26th November 2011 at 05:04 AM. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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The Zener is part of the over-voltage protection circuit. The 15v would simply make it shut down at a lower voltage.
The capacitor is a 0.1uf.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
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I see. I installed a new 104 cap. Here is also a decent guide I found on cap markings: Capacitor Code Guide
I put the 15v ZD in, plus the cap and got the amp powered up. Can I presume, that the 15v/16v ZD is measuring B+ voltage, where the cutoff point either 15v or 16v? That is interesting to say the least. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Those capacitors are marked and are read like resistors. The Resistors and Capacitors page of the DVD will tell you most everything you need to know about reading the values of various types of capacitors.
The zener begins to conduct when it's breakdown voltage is reached. From that point, it begins to pull the voltage on pin 10 up until the voltage on pin 10 reaches the threshold to shut down the IC.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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