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#51 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Illinois
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Slow down and don't get ahead of Perry's direction. There are several things that you needed to check BEFORE you put in the IRF540's, some he has already told you and some he will. These JL amps can be a pain in the rear if you're impatient.
Q504 - Q507 are the outputs, IRF540's. If you have them installed, you should carefully remove them to continue on. Once removed, recheck all the IRF540's ensuring they are still good. Visual inspection is of no use, use your meter. Look closely for solder bridges where you have done some soldering work, use your meter to verify there are no shorts everywhere you have been. Then go back and answer post #46.
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Tools - 1. TPI Scope Plus 440 2. B&K 2125 20MHz Dual Trace 3. Sorensen DCR20-50B 4. B&K 4011 5MHz Function Generator 5. Weller WESD51 |
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#52 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Texas
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Hell I have the same problem. My 500/1 turns green when powered up but absolutly no audio output. Mine has absolutly no burnt resistors or transistors, I think it might be the power supply. How can I check it or the rail voltage?
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#53 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Start a new thread.
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Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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