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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hello all, I'm back with this amp again and it will not power up makes my power go into protect if I applie just the main power wires. It was a shorted transistor in the supply (D44VH4) one was bad so I removed it. It has been damage ever since I confused one of the speaker wires for the remote wire. I need help trying to figure out how to get this on again.
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Feel the PUNCH |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Did you have another thread for this amp?
If so, post a link to it.
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Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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Feel the PUNCH |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Did you try removing the outputs as suggested previously?
If so, the that allow it to power up?
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
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I got the power supply to turn on since one transistor was shorted plus a small glass diode. I used a 2N6488 transistor just one because that was the only good pnp transistor I had laying around. It gets hot (2N6488) so I'm guessing in this type of power supply all the transistors have to be the same for these problems to go away, right?
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Feel the PUNCH |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
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When it's powered on the transformer makes a loud whine and it's producing rail voltage for both sides so I installed a good pair of output fets it will not play. Also the open trace rail cap (I previsouly repaired) When I desoldered that trace the led light up a little brighter and when close it goes dim.
So far still no audio, loud whining transformer.
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Feel the PUNCH |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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The 6488 is overheating because it's not well suited for switching duty.
I think you need to replace the power supply components (drivers, diodes and power transistors) to get the supply working properly. Then you can work on the output stage. When you do, replace the outputs in one channel at a time to limit confusion.
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Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
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What can I use for replacement for the D44V transistors? It's kinda hard since it's not a MOSFET based power supply. And what can I also use for the drivers?
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Illinois
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I have successfully used the readily available D44VH10G as a replacement for the D44V in Punch 75's.
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Tools - 1. TPI Scope Plus 440 2. B&K 2125 20MHz Dual Trace 3. Sorensen DCR20-50B 4. B&K 4011 5MHz Function Generator 5. Weller WESD51 |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Yes. The D44VH10 was the transistor used in most of the older P45s.
The original D40D8 driver transistors are obsolete and very difficult to find. You can use MPSA06s or MPSW06s as replacements. I'd recommend mounting them under the board and applying heatsink compound between the A06s and the sink. If necessary, use a piece of foam weatherstripping between the board and the A06 to ensure that the A06 remains in contact with the sink. You can also use MPSW06/56s with a clip-on heatsink (56s when using them in the audio section of the amp). Of course, if you use the clip-on heatsink, you will leave the transistor on the top side of the board. The diodes are 1N4148s.
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Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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