Phoenix Gold Tantrum 600.4 repair questions - diyAudio
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Old 6th November 2011, 09:50 PM   #1
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: kansas
Default Phoenix Gold Tantrum 600.4 repair questions

I am trying to repair a PG Tantrum 600.4 amp. Some of the resistors are burnt beyond recognition. They are not mirrored as it looked at first.

I need :Right front side R235
:Left Rear side R315, R335.

On the output a few gate resistors are open or burnt and so heat damaged with high resistance I cant tell their values.
R 239,245,439,438,440,441

If anyone could tell me these values I would greatly appreciate it thanks.
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Old 6th November 2011, 10:50 PM   #2
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Northern California
All four channels are exactly the same components and in fact most component numbers just go up by the first digit. so say R235 is bad just look for R335 its the same. Channel one part numbers start with 100, channel two is 200, and three is 300, and four is 400.

to answer your question please see the list below:
R 235 = 121 OHM
R 239 = 0.1 OHM 2 WATT
R 245 = 0.1 OHM 2 WATT
R 315 = 51.1 OHM
R 335 = 121 OHM
R 439 = 0.1 OHM 2 WATT
R 438 = 0.1 OHM 2 WATT
R 440 = 200 OHM 2 WATT
R 441 = 4.7 OHM 2WATT

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Old 6th November 2011, 11:27 PM   #3
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: kansas
Thank you very much. Any idea on where to get the output transistors Q12-17 cant seem to find it by searching for the markings ST 344115

Last edited by Triden312; 6th November 2011 at 11:29 PM.
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Old 6th November 2011, 11:57 PM   #4
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Northern California
Q12- 17 are not outputs they are switching Mosfets in the power supply STP60NE06 and any 60 amp rated or higher mosfet will work. Gate resistors are 30.1 ohms so likely replacements would include IRFZ-1010 or IRFZ-3205 OR IRFZ-48 will also work since it has a 72 amp rating. The first two replacements are much higher rated then original but may only serve to add some robust sturdiness to the power supply nothing more....

be sure and check the gate resistors to verify spec value of 30.1 ohms...
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Old 7th November 2011, 02:00 AM   #5
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: kansas
Maybe you could tell me the likely culprit for these failures since I don't have a schematic and will have to do run traces. It will not power up, upon opening I noticed R309 was not soldered in and lifted, in the Left Rear section R335,315 burnt to a crisp. In the Right Front section Q211 had a piece broken off (didn't look burnt but the dielectric material was showing) and R235 was fried.

Fets Q413,414,213,214 shorted and associated wire wound resistors were open or opening/heat damaged. All the other Power Fets/Diodes and Rail transistors checked ok. That is about as far as I have gotten.

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Old 7th November 2011, 03:57 AM   #6
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Northern California
For all the channels being damaged the way your describing it sounds like someone had this amp bridged down to two channels and then those two channels most likely were either driving a pair of subs or a dual voice coil sub. Since most all of this happened at once inside the amp I am thinking it was a catastrophic failure from pure and simple abuse.

I have seen these run two subs or a single sub with dual voice coils before. Some one wanted 600 watts into their bass-line, and they likely got it for a while till the results your describing happened.

You should look under the 12 volt caps for a open trace near the fuse block the circuit board acts like a fuse when thoughtless people try to over fuse or bypass fuse the amp. PG never wanted to damage anyone's car so they added hidden internal fuse links in the circuit board by design.

My method and approach to this amp repair:
I would pull all the outputs IRF-540's and then try to restore the power supply first. After you get that running check the lower +&- 15 volt rail regulators located up near the front of the PC board. They use pass transistors and zener diodes, and fuse resistors in green. The fuse resistors should be replaced with the same kind of device, as they are a fire preventive safety feature or PG amps. Once the above supply is functional you will have a front-end operations you can check for errant DC voltage on the op-amps up to the 10Uf 35VDc caps that are the input DC blocking for each channel. If there is no large DC voltage to these caps your front-end is most likely OK.

Now you can concentrate on rebuilding each of the four channels back to operation capabilities. just ask about any part values I will help you....

R309 is on pin 2 of op-amp U300-A and is in channel three input bass boost circuit. It's value is 57.6 Kohm. it could have melted out of place from the heat this amp saw before it let the magic smoke out like it did....

Q211 is a gate driver for output Q213 and when the power fet died so did the driver. MPSA56 is the part ID about 3 cents each in bulk like I buy them.

Fets Q413,414,213,214 all of these are output for channels number two and four. most likely bridged to a sub to take both out at the same time.

My technical opinion concerning this amp:
What you have on your hands is a basket case to rebuild. It is blown from front to back, and side to side. It can be rebuilt.
Please try to understand my point of view with regards to the overall condition of the amp on your bench currently. I have seen this before. I have rebuilt this before. It will not be a easy repair. It will be a almost total rebuild when your done and many hours of your time to do it correctly. < by many hours I mean more then four hours of labor. Parts cost will be relevant to how hard you look for good prices. For me the cost of parts to rebuild this amp is less then $20.00 in parts, but I buy in bulk quantities and pay bulk prices.

If you like you can PM me and we will take this off forum to complete since it will likely get very long in the thread to bring this one back. But I will stick with you if you want....
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