Hifonics Brutus 1206D

Dr Zeus · 31st October 2011, 04:00 AM

Ive got this amp on the bench which warants repair. One rail cap vented so I replaced them all. I had the amp working briefly after that, but a few minutes into testing and now all the amp outputs is loud buzzes which are vaugly in relation to the frequency generator's input signal.

I found 0.050vDC on RCA shields so I proceeded to remove Q11 on the driver board. I found Q11 bad, but no other components. I replaced Q11, a 1D transistor: MMBTA42. There is no longer DC on RCA shields but the amp still produces massive distorion/buzz.

One more thing, if I increase te input signal strong enough, speaker outputs start to produce slight DC. Once ~2v hits, the amp goes into protection.

Perry Babin · 31st October 2011, 07:18 AM

Try replacing Q7 as well. It may be open.

Dr Zeus · 31st October 2011, 12:51 PM

Q7 is fine. I fixed this amp; found I had not made good solder connections on Q11 when I replaced it last night. This amp is up and working perfectly now.
Thanks!

Perry Babin · 31st October 2011, 01:04 PM

In the future, replace Q7 and 11 together. They both run too hot and both tend to fail. If you haven't replaced Q7, you'll probably see that it's turned brown from overheating.

Dr Zeus · 31st October 2011, 01:05 PM

OK I'll replace Q7

31st October 2011, 04:00 AM	#1
Dr Zeus diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2010	Hifonics Brutus 1206D Ive got this amp on the bench which warants repair. One rail cap vented so I replaced them all. I had the amp working briefly after that, but a few minutes into testing and now all the amp outputs is loud buzzes which are vaugly in relation to the frequency generator's input signal. I found 0.050vDC on RCA shields so I proceeded to remove Q11 on the driver board. I found Q11 bad, but no other components. I replaced Q11, a 1D transistor: MMBTA42. There is no longer DC on RCA shields but the amp still produces massive distorion/buzz. One more thing, if I increase te input signal strong enough, speaker outputs start to produce slight DC. Once ~2v hits, the amp goes into protection.

31st October 2011, 07:18 AM	#2
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	Try replacing Q7 as well. It may be open. __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links

31st October 2011, 01:04 PM	#4
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	In the future, replace Q7 and 11 together. They both run too hot and both tend to fail. If you haven't replaced Q7, you'll probably see that it's turned brown from overheating. __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links

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31st October 2011, 12:51 PM	#3
Dr Zeus diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2010	Q7 is fine. I fixed this amp; found I had not made good solder connections on Q11 when I replaced it last night. This amp is up and working perfectly now. Thanks!

31st October 2011, 01:05 PM	#5
Dr Zeus diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2010	OK I'll replace Q7

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