hi all, I just picked 2 Ms2125's from the original owner and they work great, no leaking caps, very clean boards. Before I put them under heavy loads I want to replace the caps.
The date on them is 9132L, 10000UF 40VDC.
The others are 2200UF 16V, they look like Panosonic.
These were my choices and wanted to know what you guys think?
Digi-Key - P6669-ND (Manufacturer - ECO-S1VA153EA)
OR
Digi-Key - P6667-ND (Manufacturer - ECO-S1VA123EA)
and for the power supply caps
Digi-Key - P11210-ND (Manufacturer - EEU-FC1C562)
OR
Digi-Key - 493-1804-ND (Manufacturer - UPW1C562MHD6)
Please chime in, although I have done quite a bit of soldering, I am a newb with the cap replacement. Also if someone can post a link for the sil pads I would be really greatful as I've had no luck.
Thanks for any help
poljana
The date on them is 9132L, 10000UF 40VDC.
The others are 2200UF 16V, they look like Panosonic.
These were my choices and wanted to know what you guys think?
Digi-Key - P6669-ND (Manufacturer - ECO-S1VA153EA)
OR
Digi-Key - P6667-ND (Manufacturer - ECO-S1VA123EA)
and for the power supply caps
Digi-Key - P11210-ND (Manufacturer - EEU-FC1C562)
OR
Digi-Key - 493-1804-ND (Manufacturer - UPW1C562MHD6)
Please chime in, although I have done quite a bit of soldering, I am a newb with the cap replacement. Also if someone can post a link for the sil pads I would be really greatful as I've had no luck.
Thanks for any help
poljana
I would stay with the same value and go up in voltage on the power supply caps. I've used a lot of FC caps and they have been reliable. The others you listed for PS caps are likely OK also.
If the amp has 40v caps, it's likely because it needs 40v caps. 35v caps won't likely survive. Increasing the value won't make it sound any better. Use the original value.
The sil-pads are somewhat hard to find. Are the original pads damaged?
If the amp has 40v caps, it's likely because it needs 40v caps. 35v caps won't likely survive. Increasing the value won't make it sound any better. Use the original value.
The sil-pads are somewhat hard to find. Are the original pads damaged?
Sil-Pads are tough to find sometimes. I have a large stock if you can not find any. They are listed on auction sites < no names> and should be available from any major distributor.
PG used Panasonic FC type caps. they are some of the very best rated caps available. The 12 volt side caps leak regardless of this fact and should be serviced regularly at intervals for 2 to 5 years typically. If yours are all original date code then I would replace them for general principals that they have served their lifespan and are due.
You will find the large rail caps will drop in value to as much as 50% of their original values due to age and use. I leave the logic up to you about this fact of life. PG used caps at their marked rated DC voltage and if you check the rails voltages you will see they are very close to that DC rating. Upping the voltage 10 or 15 volts will not hinder or harm anything. Upping the total value in micro-farads also will not do much of anything accept possibly causing the amps mute circuit to not perform properly. The amp will drop volume on shutdown into crackling distortion due to certain caps still holding charge and keeping the circuit active beyond its designed operating limits.
Removing the caps can be touchy because if you don not use enough heat properly they will pull the thru hole via's out when you tug on them. And they need these via's to make the circuit properly.
I saw one persons post somewhere where he just rocked them back and forth gently until he pull the caps off the board while leaving the wires connected to the board and pulling the internal connections inside the cap out of the caps bottom seals. What was left was the entire connection leads of the caps including the internal leads of the cap then he just gently desoldered the leads. These old PG boards can de-laminate the traces if you apply too much heat from a soldering iron, so please be careful and please keep the board via's intact or the caps will not circuit properly and will not be connected in circuit like they should be. I tell you this because I have had to repair this sort of damage before after someone lacking in skill tried to do this cap replacement and the amp did not tun on afterwards. The thru hole via's must stay intact or you must repair them if they do not.... Seen this too many times..and I hope this critical info helps you avoid such issues...
PG used Panasonic FC type caps. they are some of the very best rated caps available. The 12 volt side caps leak regardless of this fact and should be serviced regularly at intervals for 2 to 5 years typically. If yours are all original date code then I would replace them for general principals that they have served their lifespan and are due.
You will find the large rail caps will drop in value to as much as 50% of their original values due to age and use. I leave the logic up to you about this fact of life. PG used caps at their marked rated DC voltage and if you check the rails voltages you will see they are very close to that DC rating. Upping the voltage 10 or 15 volts will not hinder or harm anything. Upping the total value in micro-farads also will not do much of anything accept possibly causing the amps mute circuit to not perform properly. The amp will drop volume on shutdown into crackling distortion due to certain caps still holding charge and keeping the circuit active beyond its designed operating limits.
Removing the caps can be touchy because if you don not use enough heat properly they will pull the thru hole via's out when you tug on them. And they need these via's to make the circuit properly.
I saw one persons post somewhere where he just rocked them back and forth gently until he pull the caps off the board while leaving the wires connected to the board and pulling the internal connections inside the cap out of the caps bottom seals. What was left was the entire connection leads of the caps including the internal leads of the cap then he just gently desoldered the leads. These old PG boards can de-laminate the traces if you apply too much heat from a soldering iron, so please be careful and please keep the board via's intact or the caps will not circuit properly and will not be connected in circuit like they should be. I tell you this because I have had to repair this sort of damage before after someone lacking in skill tried to do this cap replacement and the amp did not tun on afterwards. The thru hole via's must stay intact or you must repair them if they do not.... Seen this too many times..and I hope this critical info helps you avoid such issues...
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