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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
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Total newb when it comes to trying to repair an amp but this thing has been sitting around for a few years anyway so figured I'd give it a shot.
I checked out the mini tutorial on BCAE and tried to figure out the values of these burnt resistors but I'm not familiar with them enough to know what's red,orange, brown etc. Looks like bands 2,3,4 are Yellow, Black & Gold but the first and last don't seem obvious to me. There are 4 burnt in total but they all appear to be the same. I've got a close up of one next to what looks like two good ones to get help on what the colors really are. I like to tinker so I'd like to think I have the ability to pull this off with a little bit of guidance. Not sure if something else caused these to fry but figured I'd start with them first and go from there. ![]() ![]()
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
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if you have a multimeter you can measure the good resistors. From past experience, if u replace the resistors they will just burn again unless u figure out what else is wrong with the amplifier
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Wisconsin
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It looks as though R113 same as R116(34ohms), R114 same as R117(34ohms) and R115 same as R118.
resistor color codes: Graphical Resistance Calculator |
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: donnyuk
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Quote:
but generally, yes there is trouble upstream somewhere
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Indianapolis, IN
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In the Ref 500 schematic resistors R113 through R118 are the 3.3 ohm gate resistors for the power supply FETs. With those resistors being burnt, I'd check the power supply FETs. I'd also check Q107 through Q110 (FET driver trasistors) and make sure they survived.
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Ah, how beautifully the orchestra sounds before a rain! In a dry sunny day there is no way for the instruments to sound this way! Last edited by JLH; 12th October 2011 at 10:20 AM. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
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hmmm....I can see the schematic says 3.3ohm but when I try to use a resistor calculator based on the colors I get 34. If I back into getting 3.3 the 4th band would be silver and I certainly don't see any silver bands there. Not sure which side you start from but either way I see it being either yellow or gold/copper.
Is it best to go by the schematic says or what my eyes see? This seemed like something I thought I should be able to pull off but not sure I'm ready yet. I think I have more reading and learning to do. I'm the type that hates to pay to have something fixed if I think it's something I SHOULD be able to do. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
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34Ohm according to the rings. I chip in $5.
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www.siliconray.com High Quality Audio Enclosures, Amp Kits, Amplifiers, PCB Fab Services Chat with me |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
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I'd say with those resistors blown the power supply fets are sure to be blown as well. You might want to carefully take the board off of the heat sync and inspect each TO-220 transistors with your ohm meter. Across all three legs en every direction of each transsitor you should not measure any significantly low resistance or shorts (Except across only the rectifiers Legs 1&3).
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Either resistor will work but the 34 ohm resistors were used on the ones I've seen. If the solder connections appear to be original (flow soldered instead of hand soldered), the 34 ohm resistors were installed in yours originally.
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Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
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thanks guys
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