Best way to get a true 14.4vdc to my amp under load

[SomeGuyInPDX]

I want to get the most out of my amp. Output specs are quite a bit different at 14.4vdc input than 12.6v that my car produces. I am getting ready to re-do my stereo using the same gear that I have listed below with the addition of 2 more amps(Orion 2150GX and Gen1 HCCA 225), one for mid’s and the other tweets, plus 2-3way active crossovers.
Currently I am running stock HU and cabin speakers with a line level inverter tapping into the rear deck. From there it feeds into an AudioControl EQX, Orion 2350GX, to 2-15" kicker L7's. Power to the trunk is 4ga wire from battery to 140amp breaker(under hood) then to the dist. blocks in trunk, 2 caps(1farad & .5farad, I think) on to amp. All my gear is old school and power hungry.
I am currently shopping around for a new battery, high output alternator, 0ga. pwr. wire, and anything else I will need to give my amps a rigid power feed. Any suggestions on brand, performance, and setup would be greatly appreciated.

[timwebb]

strong batts...good copper wire...caps dont really help unless u have major voltage drop. from what i seen.

[SomeGuyInPDX]

I have been out of the car audio scene for about 10yrs. so I may not be as up to speed on new battery tech. but even a brand new batt makes 12.5 to 13.5v so even with two batts won't I still have less than 14.4?_ or do you wire them up to 24v and step it down with a regulator or something?_ please excuse my ignorance if this is a dumb question.

[Perry Babin]

The alternator is what you need. The wiring will help reduce the voltage drop. The battery will offer no help at 12.6 or above and will actually be an additional load on the alternator above 12.6v.

[AKHeathen]

caps, and even batteries will only keep the power smoother/cleaner, but they do not actually "give" power, and caps are actually real small amount for their size. to actually get the power/voltage, you need to have an alternator that can supply it. you can even run an alt up to 16v, but you have to be mindfull of your battery upper charge limits. my stock 165a alt. keeps me at 15.5v, and i never drop below 14 pulling over 100amps continuous. you should not be dropping to battery voltage, save for short spurts for demo/competition reasons, but daily should be run at charging voltage. don't get me wrong, though, a good battery does help out with the system, but it is not the solution for not feeding enough juice from the alt. my current choice of battery is the x2power, but there are many good brands, like xspower, dekka, and i'm not sure about the current durability of optima, but the do put out nicely.

[madtecchy]

Why would you go to all that trouble. cars are the worst place to install a high quality audio system all that glass all them reflections and resonances. And bass at that level will damage your hearing so you will not be able to tell the diffrence before to long anyways .. Imoh turning down the volume is the best way to stop supply droop.

[AKHeathen]

because, we want to...'nuff said. and, you can get some quite impressive results without damaging your hearing, if you tune it so the higher frequencies are not so loud, and, when you want more, they sell theese handy-dandy things that fall in the category of "hearing protection" usually keep a few canal caps, ear plugs, etc floating around in the vehicles with larger systems....... and i get my hearing checked anually at my job, so i know there is no damage, even over the years, still "perfect"

[luka]

start with too big alternator, this will be the only thing that will hold that voltage or higher

[SomeGuyInPDX]

Maybe I have other issues with my car, even with a new 1050cca Interstate battery I still dimm my headlights to the beat. I do run my system hard on a daily basis for 30-45 min at a time commuting 2x daily, only turned down at red lights. (I actually hate being that guy, sittin' at the red light windows down, system up) As for my hearing, It's just fine.
Any suggestions on battery brands, or alternators. I have heard that some alternaters over rate, or achieve claimed numbers at high RPM not at idle or near it.

[Perry Babin]

It's not common for an alternator to be able to produce rated current at idle.

A new alternator isn't guaranteed to stop the dimming. There is a bit of regulator lag in most alternators that will cause dimming at the beginning of a point in the music where there is a lot of current draw. If the alternator is capable of producing the required current, the dimming will be brief. If it's not capable of supplying the required current, the lights will remain dim until the current draw decreases.

To eliminate the headlight dimming, you may need to go to HID headlights, run two alternators (one for the system, the other for the vehicle's electronics) or put the headlights on a regulator.