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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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I just got another one of theese in for repair..
The boards look nothing alike at all.. Must be 2 different versions of this amp.. I opened this amp up and transistors fell out of it.. Wondering if anyone knows a good replacement for the following transistors.. First one is marked : K214 2nd one is marked: J77 They are both T0-220 AB package |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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How are those being used? The datasheets that I found indicate that they're only rated for 1/2 amp of current.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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Im guessing the drivers for the outputs.. Here is a pic of the board and i put an arrow to thoose transistors..
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Are they shorted?
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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The legs are broken
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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I don't have any suggestions for anything similar. If no one else does, try an IRF540 and and IRF9540. I'm assuming that the supply voltage in this amp isn't greater than ±50v.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Illinois
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It would appear that MCM has both original part numbers in stock.
__________________
Tools - 1. TPI Scope Plus 440 2. B&K 2125 20MHz Dual Trace 3. Sorensen DCR20-50B 4. B&K 4011 5MHz Function Generator 5. Weller WESD51 |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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Does anyone know thw the value of C13 and C14 ??
The amp is missing them.. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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Or any ideas what may work in C13 and C14 locations ?
C13 the negative side of the cap connects to the 3rd leg of the power supply fets - IRFZ34 C13's positive side connects to the middle leg of the IRFZ34 C14 does the same but in the other power supply of the amp.. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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Ok i think i might have figured out the value of them..
Next thing is this amp has 4 power supply in it .. 1 supply per 2 channels.. There is also 4 banks of rectifiers in this amp 1 bank per 2 channels.. When trying to power the amp up it will draw excessive current and the outputs will heat up.. If i remove all 4 banks of rectifiers the amp will power up and idle perfectly.. if i try to put just 1 bank of rectifiers in it no matter what supply i put them in the amp goes back to drawing excessive current and the outputs heat up within 5 secs.. Any ideas what to check? |
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