RF T3002 ..two burnt ch

ian33 · 6th October 2011, 03:31 AM

Two of the channels are badly burnt.If anyone have the schematics please send it to me ranks33@hotmail.com

brandes.cm · 6th October 2011, 01:55 PM

https://sites.google.com/site/brande...edirects=0&d=1

It won't be much different than this one.

ian33 · 14th October 2011, 01:55 PM

I replace the burnt parts in both ch.now i am getting -27.6 volts on pin 4 of all opamps.Q13 -regulator is getting hot and Q14 is also getting hot.I replace Q13 with a used one but no change.any ideas what can cause that?
Q13
1:23.7v
2:33.5v
3:29.6v

Q114
1:31.5v
2:36.4v
331.9v

brandes.cm · 14th October 2011, 02:21 PM

Pull the regulators and verify the voltage on the op-amps goes away. I would then lift the supply pins on the op-amps and re-install the regulators. Check the voltage on the outputs +-15. If those seem ok, replace the op-amps. I don't believe those parts can take that much supply voltage.

Perry Babin · 14th October 2011, 05:33 PM

Do you mean Q12 and Q13?

Those are the regulators.

ian33 · 17th October 2011, 03:25 PM

when i remove the regulators the amp thermal light comes on.

Q13 and Q114 used to get hot.

The amp has no rail voltage now.If i pull the center leg of the rectifires i get rail voltage on the center legs.All outputs are out of the amp right now.I dont no what to check now.Any idea?

Perry Babin · 17th October 2011, 10:01 PM

You've listed, Q13, Q14 and Q114. Are you dealing with 3 difference components or was the Q14/114 a typo? If so, which is correct?

ian33 · 18th October 2011, 01:07 AM

yes typo sorry it was Q13 and Q114 but now the amp have more problems like i said in post #6.I dont no where to start looking for the faults.

Perry Babin · 18th October 2011, 01:18 AM

I don't know what to expect if you remove the regulators. Are you referring to Q12 and Q13?

ian33 · 18th October 2011, 02:05 AM

yes

14th October 2011, 05:33 PM	#5
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	Do you mean Q12 and Q13? Those are the regulators. __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links

17th October 2011, 10:01 PM	#7
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	You've listed, Q13, Q14 and Q114. Are you dealing with 3 difference components or was the Q14/114 a typo? If so, which is correct? __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links

18th October 2011, 01:18 AM	#9
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	I don't know what to expect if you remove the regulators. Are you referring to Q12 and Q13? __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links

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6th October 2011, 01:55 PM	#2
brandes.cm diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Wisconsin	https://sites.google.com/site/brande...edirects=0&d=1 It won't be much different than this one.

14th October 2011, 01:55 PM	#3
ian33 diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: the caribbean	I replace the burnt parts in both ch.now i am getting -27.6 volts on pin 4 of all opamps.Q13 -regulator is getting hot and Q14 is also getting hot.I replace Q13 with a used one but no change.any ideas what can cause that? Q13 1:23.7v 2:33.5v 3:29.6v Q114 1:31.5v 2:36.4v 331.9v

14th October 2011, 02:21 PM	#4
brandes.cm diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Wisconsin	Pull the regulators and verify the voltage on the op-amps goes away. I would then lift the supply pins on the op-amps and re-install the regulators. Check the voltage on the outputs +-15. If those seem ok, replace the op-amps. I don't believe those parts can take that much supply voltage.

17th October 2011, 03:25 PM	#6
ian33 diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: the caribbean	when i remove the regulators the amp thermal light comes on. Q13 and Q114 used to get hot. The amp has no rail voltage now.If i pull the center leg of the rectifires i get rail voltage on the center legs.All outputs are out of the amp right now.I dont no what to check now.Any idea?

18th October 2011, 01:07 AM	#8
ian33 diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: the caribbean	yes typo sorry it was Q13 and Q114 but now the amp have more problems like i said in post #6.I dont no where to start looking for the faults.

18th October 2011, 02:05 AM	#10
ian33 diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: the caribbean	yes

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