Recommendations on the BIG 3 upgrade

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Bought a 220 amp alternator for my 95 buick. Now I need the wiring...

Where can I get a good wire...not too expensive but...a good 0/1 gauge.

(I'm a fan of knukonceptz) But this one guy was selling kits for $25...but I cannot get ahold of him...so does anyone know where I can buy a good kit at...my budget is $100.
 
You don't need wire that large. 4 would likely be good enough. 2g would be overkill.

When you install the new wiring, you should insert a fuse between the alternator and the battery. This will help protect the vehicle if the alternator fails-shorted or the wire gets shorted to the case of the alternator. Many vehicles have either a fuse or a fusible link for safety. Most people don't include any sort of protection when they upgrade these wires.

If you use 4g, use a 150 amp fuse (it isn't likely to blow). If you use 2g, use nothing larger than a 200 amp fuse.

You can buy neoprene insulated welding cable for relatively cheap if you don't need the fancy stuff.
 
If the alternator produces 220 amps you may want to run a 200 or 250 amp fuse between it and the battery. The 150 may hold up most of the time but I'm not sure it won't melt when pushing the system to its limits. Depending on the distance from the battery, 4 gauge could be ok but it doesn't hurt to use thicker wire if you have room. The thinner the wire, the more likely its resistance will rise when pushed and you don't want any resistance added when trying to keep good current and voltage flow. A thinner cable can get warm at its limits, acting as a resistor and the hotter it gets the higher its resistance becomes.
 
If the alternator produces 220 amps you may want to run a 200 or 250 amp fuse between it and the battery. The 150 may hold up most of the time but I'm not sure it won't melt when pushing the system to its limits. Depending on the distance from the battery, 4 gauge could be ok but it doesn't hurt to use thicker wire if you have room. The thinner the wire, the more likely its resistance will rise when pushed and you don't want any resistance added when trying to keep good current and voltage flow. A thinner cable can get warm at its limits, acting as a resistor and the hotter it gets the higher its resistance becomes.
^^x2 run the 0 or 1 for the big 3 and if I were you I would consider thinking about a second battery near the amp in the future, if you have not already. I know they sell those big farad caps, but avoid them if at all possible. If you are runnin the Brutus series, it should accept up to 0 guage +/- wires and rated for 200 A fusing. Fuse it as close to the front battery as possible to avoid burning your car to the ground in the event of a short somewhere (seen it happen once).
 
Always use 1/0 gauge wire, and use oxygen free copper(ofc) for best conductivity, fuse at both ends of the positive wire with a 300amp fuse, short story: I have two runs of 2/0 welfare wire and my starter battery is located in the trunk, some way one of the runs got pinched by a bolt and my car shut off, lucky I had fused at both ends and both fuses pooped, my car could have got up on fire.
Now make sure you ground to the engine block and a solid connection to the chasis of the car this will insure your battery discharges and recharges properly, I've seen battery's that didn't have the engine ground and the wire melt the shield because the wire got so hot and others were the batteries will swell up and some blow up.
 
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