New to car audio - Need advice!

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You don't need a new deck. When your shopping around for a new amp, many times you will see two pairs of RCA's on them. One set is for inputs, another set is outputs to continue the signal on to another amp. Now, I don't think the Alpine you have has this, but the next subwoofer amp you get should. Thus you only really need one set of RCA's coming from the deck.

Oh that's awesome. Thanks for the information! So I should continue the connection onto my Alpine T303 from the new amp and use the Alpine to power my speakers then?

Here's some amps I found:

Brand New Rockford Fosgate R250-1 250 Watt RMS Mono Car Amplifier- $97.95

JX250/1 - JL Audio Monoblock 250W RMS 500W Class A/B Amplifier- $149.95

Kenwood KAC-6104D 600 Watt Max Power Class D Mono Power Amplifier with Variable LPF - $69.99

Cobalt Series 600-Watt 2-Channel Class A/B Car Amplifier -$97.00

JBL GT5-A3011 600 Watt Monoblock Subwoofer Car Amplifier Sub Amp GT5A3011 -$119.00

JVC KSAX4302 600 Watt 2CH Car Amplifier Bridgeable Amp - $62.88

Diamond audio D600.1 600 watt mono amp -$70

HIFONICS 600 WATT RMS 2/1 CHANNEL CH AMPLIFIER CAR AMP -$99

If you want to really have a good system I'd recommend buying a good 6 gauge power wire kit...or 6 gauge kit. My recommendations are kicker wire sets...or Knukonceptz...maybe even stinger.

Since you have a 8 ohm load of your kickers, it'd be best to parallel wire them into a 4 ohm, so you get more bass out of them.

Here is a wiring diagram

Subwoofer Wiring Diagrams, Two 8 ohm Single Voice Coil (SVC) Speakers

Sweet, I appreciate you looking that up. I'll look into those. Does it matter if my wiring kit is overkill? cause I have 8 gauge in the garage.
 
Well 8 gauge is okay. It's meant for systems under 1000 watt. As long as the 8 gauge is a true 8 gauge. But else wise...yeah it's okay. =] Although I wouldn't think you'd need it...you may need to buy a farad capacitor to prevent light dimming and battery draining....but don't buy that until you hooked everything up and see the diagnosis.

I would also recommend that you go for any of the D class amps...unless you want voice in your kickers, then A/B class is good for those. But D class is meant for more power. IMO Hifonics/Diamond/Cobalt are good amps.

Just heard a cobalt amp the other day and it was beasty.

I own a 2000watt rms Hifonics amp and it rattles everything including the person's car's window next to mine. *Do it next to a cop, see what happens. hahaha*

Diamonds are generally a good brand...considering they make some kick *** subwoofers...but I can't say anything about the amps.
 
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If there is a problem with the supply voltage, the system is not properly designed. If the voltage is dropping (well above idle, 1500+ RPMs), the alternator doesn't have enough capacity. A capacitor won't make that better. The only thing that will solve that problem is the right alternator. The money that would be spent on a capacitor should go towards a better alternator.
 
lol when you run a system that is 1000watt ++....you'll want one. unless u want to kill your battery in 2 yrs or your alternator.
are you sure you know what are you talking about, not trying to say anything about your long years of experience, BUT one thing you will never need is capacitor. the only time, and even then I wouldn't use capacitor, unless it is atleast 20F, is when you have very thin wire going back to amp and you don't have another battery there.

fact is that cap is good only for peaks, other then this, alternator will have to work much harder to provide power to amp(s) and fill the cap.
And cap won't stop your voltage from going lower, even below 12v

And for what price they are, you can get good battery, which will help you system FAR better then any cap you could by and put in car. Only bad thing about that is, weight

Btw, I'm running FAR over 1000w system and don't have cap and I haven't killed nor my 12y alt nor my two 6y batteries during 4y+ of playing music(having amps on them)

But what will kill your alt is, LOW voltage, 10v = bad, 11v = well, not the best and above 12v you are good, while you stress your alt to max

Batteries are good, can't kill them if you don't discharge them to 9v... but while car running you really should let them fill up or put them on charger, just keep in mind that battery(s) that have low voltage are empty, which will stress your alt A LOT

so to make things short: A lot of batteries will hold your minimum voltage of around 12v (depends on your amps power output) while alternator or several of them, will hold your power above 12v, anywhere from 13.5 to 15.5v (set by regulator inside of alt or outside)
 
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Many of the cars in Europe and that part of the world have very small engines. Some countries pay the equivalent of $10/gallon for fuel so they don't have the luxury of larger engines. The drag on the engine by a large alternator producing significant current can produce a noticeable drag on the engine. I think he was joking about it killing the engine, although it may be possible at idle for an older vehicle without computer control.
 
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