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Midbass driver parameters for car audio
Midbass driver parameters for car audio
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Old 13th September 2011, 11:50 AM   #1
alspe is offline alspe  Finland
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Default Midbass driver parameters for car audio

What kind of drivers are the most suitable for car, ecpesially for front door mounting? What I have understood is that large Qts driver are often used. Are they used truly for SQ or because they are cheap (weak motor, paper cone etc) Qts around 1 represents light cone so usually high Fs. High Qts driver gives boomy mid/upper bass so more SPL per watt.
Car cabin is small so bass boosting begins earlier than in room so why we need boosting in car by driver? Is it that exterior back ground noise (usually its wave lenght is long) is much bigger than in home so we must cancel it by boosting bass region more? Which we need more in car, upper bass sensitivity (boosting curve) or allover sensitivity?

I'm looking for 6,5" drivers that can produce bass enough so I can live without subwoofer. I've now listened couple of years with stock speakers of VW Passat 2002 so true car hifi is not needed. Just more solid upper bass and better allround SQ. (later I add better tweeters and crossover)

Last edited by alspe; 13th September 2011 at 11:58 AM.
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Old 13th September 2011, 11:57 AM   #2
pinkmouse is offline pinkmouse  Europe
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Midbass driver parameters for car audio

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Old 13th September 2011, 02:46 PM   #3
TheBaronGroog is offline TheBaronGroog  United Kingdom
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Most car drivers will be designed to work in a door-so could be considered IB for most vehicles(door volume normally over 3x VAS, leaky box)-hence the high Q drivers. The stock locations of the drivers also means that you tend to get a midrange suck out at around 200Hz-as its wavelength tends to be around the width of a car interior (circa 1.7m) so any boost around those ranges can help hide the hole.

Depending on the work you're will to carry out the installation can make a huge difference. The passat will easily take 8" drivers if you really want to go subless, though in a car I would ALWAYS recommend a subwoofer as trying to get your midbass to play midrange and midbass/bass well is asking a lot from a driver in a poor enclosure and noisey environment.

One of the inherent issues of going subless is getting enough power into your front doors to adequately cover wind/road noise(and cancellation) while not putting so much power into them that the doors begin to rattle and sound awful by themselves.

I've put over 300 worth of sound deadening in my car (2003min cooper s) and have 600 worth of Dynaudio front speakers to go in-I'd not expect them to give me much below 80Hz and the mids will be running off a 120wrms amp each in a heavily modified door.

Whether you can find a driver that can give you enough bass without a seperate subwoofer will also depend on what you listen to-dubstep/dance/hiphop, no way, jazz/blues/classical maybe. As far as comp sets I've fitted and been surprised at the output a little known brand DB Audio have done very well, we fitted some in a Civic Type R (new shape) along with a Dynamat trunk kit (20SQ Foot of sound deadening into the front doors) and a KAC-X4D amp (4x 120wrms) to drive the comps and a sub. If the guy was just into jazz/blues etc these would have suffice:

Higher end Focal are well known for their mid/bass output-but I've found their tweeters fatiguing.

Otherwise the usual home audio suspects:
Tang band
Scan Speak etc
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