Help with Memphis 1000D's - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > General Interest > Car Audio

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11th September 2011, 01:08 PM   #1
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Buffalo N.Y.
Default Help with Memphis 1000D's

I have been hanging on to two of these amps for years. They both light red(protection)when powered up. I just picked up a third blown one and I figured it's time to look into it. After reading a couple of threads about them on this site, and after seeing how badly damaged the third one is (unrepairable) I figured its probably the transistors in the output section that are bad. On one of them, some of the transistors on the input side(like 2 out of 8 of them) look faintly around the edges as though they started to turn pinkish(the metal part not the plastic) and I can see what looks like faint signs of burn coming out of the plastic onto the metal maybe burnt solder paste. Nothing else looks bad inside both of them, nothing burnt or melted at all. The four like transistors on both sides of the output are turned a pinkish red but a lot worse. I have two working 1000d's but are installed in such a way it would be a pain to take them out and look inside of them. I'm only assuming that they are the color they are because they got so hot they fried, but im not certain. Hoping I could get some advice here.
Thanks in advance
  Reply With Quote
Old 11th September 2011, 03:14 PM   #2
timwebb is offline timwebb  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: memphis tn
which one have u started on? got pics
  Reply With Quote
Old 11th September 2011, 03:21 PM   #3
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
IF you haven't done so already, you should read the basic amp repair page (link in sig line below) carefully and in its entirety to get up to speed. Then ask specific questions.
  Reply With Quote
Old 11th September 2011, 06:08 PM   #4
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Buffalo N.Y.
I took the totally screwed up one one out of the chassis to identify everything and have the other two opened up. The one thats unrepairable, the B+ connect broke off and they tried to solder the wire right to the board or something and completely ruined the traces and ran it anyway, said they had it working but it started arcing. All of the input transistors are burned, real bad, and its missing a couple components including the B+ terminal. As soon as I find my camera I'll try to take pics. I will go ahead and read the link to in the meantime. Might take a few days. Thanks a lot guy's.
  Reply With Quote
Old 11th September 2011, 07:54 PM   #5
timwebb is offline timwebb  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: memphis tn
if its burnt bad u might wanna strip it down and fix those traces first.
  Reply With Quote
Old 11th September 2011, 09:52 PM   #6
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Buffalo N.Y.
That amp is not fixable. I'm not an electronic technician, but I've done work on circuit boards and this board is ruined. Also its missing the terminal block(B+) and the blue rectangle component coming from the remote wire trace which is ruined also. I'll take a pic of that too when I get a chance. Like I said I just took it apart to identify parts and damage. The other two amps lightly show signs of excessive heat on the transistors but the drivers on the upright boards appear to be good(appear), and all the traces for the transistor resistors look fine, including the resistors. I'm not even sure how to test the components, Ive only read the couple threads on similar problems. The original thread I found was titled "Memphis 1000d Transistor Blowing" and was started way back in December 2005. I was hoping Perry Babin was still on the site because he had an answer for everything even on how to test everything. So I figured if I joined he could point me in the right direction or I would just do what the thread starter had done to his amp.
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th September 2011, 12:43 AM   #7
timwebb is offline timwebb  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: memphis tn
sell it? i just fix one with the power supply transistors completely burn the board...i need a few of them anyway.
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th September 2011, 05:46 AM   #8
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Buffalo N.Y.
I don't know your education/skill level but I can tell you have a lot more experience than me with this stuff. What would you do, cancel out the trace and run wires straight to where the traces lead?? I'm sorry I haven't had the chance to get any pic's I have other things going on more important right now. But as soon as I get to it I'll take detailed pics of this burnt one to show you how bad it is. Its has the traces burnt on the top and bottom of the board they really did a number on this thing. I believe he said they tried soldering a wire straight to the board and failed to get a good contact so they wedged the wire in with wood and ran it like that and it arced real bad and fried the heck out of it.
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th September 2011, 06:16 AM   #9
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Buffalo N.Y.
I remebered that upon aquiring the other two amps, they didn't have the two 40amp fuses in them and the person I got them from wasn't most trustworthy guy I knew so I assumed they didn't work from the get go. I put fuses in them and powered them up from a portable jump start box and they lit red and stayed red. After reading perry's link on basic amp repair I rembered I ran into a problem installing a jl audio amp that was fine but kept shutting off. I came to discover the voltage was dropping so low it was going into protect mode. The jump box i had might of been doing this. I just tried powering one up but I cant quite get the right test setup from the system in my car while I'm at work because the way my amp is installed I'd have to take everything apart to get at the 4 gauge wires feeding the amp. So I used the small(probably 16-18gauge) wires from my line driver to connect it and this is what happened. The amp went red when remote was applied(like normal) but the red L.e.d. was kind of flickering and the green L.e.d. was trying to light. Then the ground wire started to melt. I figured even though they were small gauge wires I wasn't driving the amp so it would power up. The four capacitors near the power inputs started to get hot along with internal fuses. I'm just assuming that this was because It couldnt get good ground through the thin wire? I also put in smaller fuses than what the amp calls for I used a 20 and a 25. But they didnt blow. I could smell a faint smell coming from the amp but nothing burnt or popped. Hopefully this occured from the amp trying to pull too much through the thin wire. Maybe these 2 do work. I'm gonna get set up right at home and make some 4gauge test wires I can connect to the capacitor when I get a chance. I will keep you guy's posted. Thanks for the assistance already.
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th September 2011, 08:28 AM   #10
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Columbus, Ohio ^
I can’t offer much help other then I would suggest installing one 10 amp fuse maximum when trying to power the amps up, especially if you try from larger gauge wire with the car battery. You may end up causing more damage trying to test them if they have problems, they may end up in bad shape like your burnt up one.

I would think a working amp should not be melting 16 to 18 gauge wire while powering up and idling, I power up amps from wire that size for light testing / repair & have never had a problem, I use wires only a few feet long however, so that’s not saying it may not be a problem. Melting wire means it’s pulling significant current & if you smell something coming out of the amp during your testing, I think it’s safe to say there is a problem, plus if anything seems to be getting hot while idling, that’s typically not normal.
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
memphis 1500 timwebb Car Audio 3 8th August 2011 03:20 AM
memphis 1500d timwebb Car Audio 11 21st July 2010 09:33 PM
memphis 1500d timwebb Car Audio 4 1st June 2010 01:23 PM
memphis 1000 mike49504 Car Audio 43 13th January 2010 04:34 PM
Memphis...? hooverjr10 Subwoofers 0 14th December 2007 03:16 AM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 12:41 AM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2