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Old 12th September 2011, 10:27 AM   #11
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Buffalo N.Y.
That was my initial thought, not driving the amp so it wouldnt pull all kinds of current. I dont think my line driver has a sufficient ground though because I probed the amp before i turned it on without the car running and I only had about 11.6 volts. But I you're your right, smelling something and wires burning is a bad sign. I turned the car on and had above 14volts when i turned the amp on. Should I not bother powering them up again even with a small inline fuse?? I dont want to further damage them like you said. Too valuable of a product thats why I take them even if they're burnt. The two I have that are working I bought when I was 17. Now I'm 30 and they're still just as strong as the day I bought them and I absolutely crank those mothers!!
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Old 12th September 2011, 11:22 AM   #12
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I think it would be ok to try to power it up with a 10 amp fuse inline, using your good power wire. But if the 10-amp fuse blows I would not keep trying it.

I am no pro at amp repair; again I just tinker with this stuff, so you may want to wait for the experts info on testing them safely. I just wanted you to be aware it’s generally not a good idea to have high amp fuses in an amp that may have problems when trying to power them up. If there is a problem & the amp is drawing excessive current, the larger fuse may not blow in time to stop more damage from happening.

Edit on my previous post: I guess I shouldn’t necessarily say that if anything is getting hot that’s not normal, as some things like regulators & some power resistors depending on there application in the circuit can get a bit warm. If any output or power supply transistors are getting hot when powering it up, that’s generally not normal, & if capacitors are getting hot while idling, that does not seem normal either.

Anyway, I hope you get them working! If you take your time hopefully you will be able to, Perry Babin knows his stuff, so if you can follow along with his instructions there is a great possibility you will!
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Old 13th September 2011, 12:07 AM   #13
timwebb is offline timwebb  United States
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have u check all transistors im positive they are bad ?
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Old 13th September 2011, 07:02 AM   #14
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just about all i can tell you is pretty much the same you will learn by reading perry's link...... when powering it up for testing, you limit the current by running a headlight in-line with the power wire. first thing to check is a short between any of the transistor legs in both the power supply, and output. one thing i generally tend to do, is find the shorted transistor, if only one, or 2, by reading the differential on the resistors, or the one that is shorted to all legs, and then cut it out. if the drivers and circuits are good, it should power up and idle with the bad transistors removed. keep in mind, you do need to replace the whole section, allong with the resistors, not just the bad one(s) sometimes, the drivers are also shorted, too... really, if you are unsure about anything, go back and re-read his work. don't guess. the majority of what i fix is simple as shorted power fets, shorted outputs, blown (shorting, sometimes exploded) caps, and reverse connection protection diodes. there is a good chance you will find your problem in one of those categories, but sometimes, you will end up in a more complex repair....... once again, i highly recommend reading up on it before you begin tinkering....
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Old 15th September 2011, 06:24 AM   #15
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I have been reading and going over how to test the transistors. This is what I have found. I am assuming the legs are 1 2 3 left to right from the front of the transistor(side that is labeled). All being tested with them in the board and amp not powered. My meter is a INNOVA 3320. I don't have the manual with me specs are at iEquus.com. I'm at work, for some stupid reason I can log onto this site but the firewall wont let me onto that site.

IRF640's (2 of them) in the output section on the same side of the amp as the rca connection are both showing 0 ohms on legs 2+3. Legs 1+3 showing 49.7-49.9, leg's 1+2 showing 49.7
IRF640's on opposite side showing .2-.3 and 0 legs 2+3, 1st one showing 21.0 legs 1+3, 2nd one showing 1.2 legs 1+3, first one showing 21.3 legs 1+2, other showing 1.3 legs 1+2

IRF9640's on rca output side, 1st two starting after the 640's showing 49.4 legs 1+3, 49.4 legs 1+2, legs 2+3 reading 0.
Two remaining in the row, #3 reading 20.2 legs 1+3, legs 1+2 reading 20.2, legs 2+3 reading 0. Last IRF9640 legs 1+3 reading .2, legs 1+2 reading .2, legs 2+3 reading 0.

Opposite side 9640's all 4 reading 49.4 legs 1+3 and legs 1+2, legs 2+3 on all 4 reading 0

IRF3205's input side starting from end of amp all showing about 47.0 legs 1+3. Legs 1+2 on all 8 of them are starting no less than 33.0 but the meter keeps climbing very slow and I can't get a "solid" reading. With legs 2+3 on all of them the meter is acting really weird, it either starts of low at about .377 then climbs above 2.0 slowly then reads O.L, then jumps up to about 10.0 and drops slowly. When you go to the next one down the line it picks up usually where the last one left off and continues to drop. When dropping eventually it will read O.L again, then go back low around .3 and climb again. Go to the next one it picks up where it left off and climbs. Process repeats like that. Please bear with me I don't know what this means, I put a fresh battery in the meter when I began.
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Old 15th September 2011, 06:39 AM   #16
timwebb is offline timwebb  United States
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is this ohms or diode check?
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Old 15th September 2011, 06:39 AM   #17
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meter set to ohms
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Old 15th September 2011, 07:01 AM   #18
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These appear to be defective. Remove them from the circuit and re-test the others:
1+2, other showing 1.3 legs 1+2
legs 1+2 reading .2

In the future, include the circuit board designation for each transistor (printed on the board next to the transistor -- Q251...).
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Old 15th September 2011, 07:01 AM   #19
timwebb is offline timwebb  United States
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your gonna need a better meter.try to find a fluke pawn shops have them cheap.

is this in or out the circuit? for this test they have to be out of the board.

Last edited by timwebb; 15th September 2011 at 07:07 AM.
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Old 15th September 2011, 07:10 AM   #20
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Tim-All testing with the transistors in the circuit, amp not powered. Perry-pull the ones in the output section IRF640's and the 9640's? Do the input trans. appear ok?

Last edited by project pat; 15th September 2011 at 07:16 AM.
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