Okay I have two Audiobahns ALUM10N woofers *Dual voice coil*, So I'm not looking for an A/B class amp, I have no need for voice.
(2) Audiobahn ALUM10N woofers
(2) 3200 watt max / 1600 RMS max
(1) 1600 watt max / 800 RMS max
What I was planning on buying was a Lanzar MAXP1200 1800 Watts Mono
1 x 450 Watts RMS at 4 Ohms
1 x 900 Watts Max at 2 Ohms
1 x 1800 Watts Max at 1 Ohms
But I was went to research it up and I'm seeing some good and some really bad stuff about it. I hear lanzar puts up false RMS ratings and stuff so it's becoming a little iffy for me to even want to buy it. For $79. But I have looked up another amp that fits my price range (Not really, but I can live without some bumps for a little while til I get my next paycheck)
Hifonics Hfi2000d 2000 watt
RMS Power at 4 ohms: 650 watts x 1 chan
RMS Power at 2 ohms: 1300 watts x 1 chan
RMS Power at 1 ohms: 2000 watts x 1 chan
It does exceed my watt max on my subs...but my subs can only be wired as 1.5 ohms so I don't know how to calculate exactly how much watts are going to be contrubuted among them.
My set up consists of 0/1 Gauge amp kit, a dual enclosed 10" box (Having to customize it myself due to the subs are 10 7/8"), a 3.5 Farad capicator, a Sony CD/AUX/Ipod car stereo (52x4 watts) and a 400 amp alternator (*Supercharged*)
So if you would kindly guide me what I should get (pretty sure it's gonna be the hifonics, or another brand...try to keep the amp price range in the $200 category please) I would gladly appreciate it. -Steve
(2) Audiobahn ALUM10N woofers
(2) 3200 watt max / 1600 RMS max
(1) 1600 watt max / 800 RMS max
What I was planning on buying was a Lanzar MAXP1200 1800 Watts Mono
1 x 450 Watts RMS at 4 Ohms
1 x 900 Watts Max at 2 Ohms
1 x 1800 Watts Max at 1 Ohms
But I was went to research it up and I'm seeing some good and some really bad stuff about it. I hear lanzar puts up false RMS ratings and stuff so it's becoming a little iffy for me to even want to buy it. For $79. But I have looked up another amp that fits my price range (Not really, but I can live without some bumps for a little while til I get my next paycheck)
Hifonics Hfi2000d 2000 watt
RMS Power at 4 ohms: 650 watts x 1 chan
RMS Power at 2 ohms: 1300 watts x 1 chan
RMS Power at 1 ohms: 2000 watts x 1 chan
It does exceed my watt max on my subs...but my subs can only be wired as 1.5 ohms so I don't know how to calculate exactly how much watts are going to be contrubuted among them.
My set up consists of 0/1 Gauge amp kit, a dual enclosed 10" box (Having to customize it myself due to the subs are 10 7/8"), a 3.5 Farad capicator, a Sony CD/AUX/Ipod car stereo (52x4 watts) and a 400 amp alternator (*Supercharged*)
So if you would kindly guide me what I should get (pretty sure it's gonna be the hifonics, or another brand...try to keep the amp price range in the $200 category please) I would gladly appreciate it. -Steve
diyma has a good 2nd hand section, you'll find something in there no problem.
If it has to be new the hifonics are good vfm-though i doubt the make rated either.
Are you buying from a shop or online? If a shop go and look at the amps, easiest way of seeing if they'll make close to RMS is add all the fuses together and multiply by 12 and then work out 80% of that figure for a rough guide to a Class D amp's RMS.
So 3x 25amp fuse=75amps
75a x 12v=900wrms before the fuses blow
900wrms is 100% of the power going into the amp, but no amp is 100% efficient (A/B around 55% Class D around 80-90%)
So say 80% or 900wrms=720wrms @ 12v or about 864wrms @ 14.4v
If it has to be new the hifonics are good vfm-though i doubt the make rated either.
Are you buying from a shop or online? If a shop go and look at the amps, easiest way of seeing if they'll make close to RMS is add all the fuses together and multiply by 12 and then work out 80% of that figure for a rough guide to a Class D amp's RMS.
So 3x 25amp fuse=75amps
75a x 12v=900wrms before the fuses blow
900wrms is 100% of the power going into the amp, but no amp is 100% efficient (A/B around 55% Class D around 80-90%)
So say 80% or 900wrms=720wrms @ 12v or about 864wrms @ 14.4v
With the Hifonics you mention the output at 1.5ohm would be around 1650rms-if it's doing rated.
Don't worry about the output being rated higher than your subs-this is preferable as you can easily hear subs hitting their mechanical limits, while it's very hard to hear a sub amp hitting its limits (apparently most people won't pick up on 50% distortion on subwoofers!) Just keep the gains down low and turn it down if it sounds like they're struggling.
BTW Good subs, Audiobahn take a load of flack but I've run those same subs sealed and ported and had great results in both apps (3x 12" ported and tuned to 35Hz and small sealed single-both in car)
Don't worry about the output being rated higher than your subs-this is preferable as you can easily hear subs hitting their mechanical limits, while it's very hard to hear a sub amp hitting its limits (apparently most people won't pick up on 50% distortion on subwoofers!) Just keep the gains down low and turn it down if it sounds like they're struggling.
BTW Good subs, Audiobahn take a load of flack but I've run those same subs sealed and ported and had great results in both apps (3x 12" ported and tuned to 35Hz and small sealed single-both in car)
Also I'm partially deaf...not by excessive bass noise but by heritage so I can never tell the difference between a struggling sub or distortion. That's the only reason why I don't want to under power my system drastically nor over power them. I like to stay inside the safe zone...although the subs were only $129 for both...I'd still hate to waste money.
Amp should be fine for the job, you will be overpowering them, but you should be ok if you set it up well.
Running the subs sealed will reduce your chance of damaging them as the box will offer better damping below Fs, a vented box I'd suspect would be easier for you to damage them as you may not hear them having trouble below Fs- though you would have an infra/subsonic filter to cut the amp's output below the tuning frequency of the box.
Good news is they work vey well sealed and take up less space-keep us posted
Running the subs sealed will reduce your chance of damaging them as the box will offer better damping below Fs, a vented box I'd suspect would be easier for you to damage them as you may not hear them having trouble below Fs- though you would have an infra/subsonic filter to cut the amp's output below the tuning frequency of the box.
Good news is they work vey well sealed and take up less space-keep us posted
Alright will do. Thank you for giving me advice. Should be getting the new amp n stuff soon. Decided to change my 0 gauge wire to knu products. Heard good stuff about them. Gonna cost me $63 but it'd be worth the money. Although I may have to replace my caliber...just put on new brakes n one of them smell like burning rubber so crossing my fingers that its not broken
What wiring have you got now? Changing it won't make a lot of difference if you switch to the same gauge. If it's CCA (copper clad aluminim) the changing to OFC may improve durability and reduce voltage drop a little, but even then I'd still spend elsewhere until the current cable packs in...
Ah, ok-thought from your earlier post that you already had 0/1g. Not seen the Knu stuff myself, but heard good things.
BTW can your Dr give you a graph of your hearing response? I've used that in the past to help a near deaf customer tune his car to get it as flat as possible for him (saved another curve for when he had passengers). His issue was with midrange and up-couldn't tell he was smoking tweeters until the magic fairy dust escaped!
BTW can your Dr give you a graph of your hearing response? I've used that in the past to help a near deaf customer tune his car to get it as flat as possible for him (saved another curve for when he had passengers). His issue was with midrange and up-couldn't tell he was smoking tweeters until the magic fairy dust escaped!
Alrighty, for you barron.
Received the amp, now I can't figure out to wire from the speaker terminal to the amp...considering I only have one speaker wire going from the box. (I do not want to blow my subs)
(Ever hear of Hertz energy subs? Friend has a pair of these and the tinsel lead keeps blowing off...solutions?)
Received the amp, now I can't figure out to wire from the speaker terminal to the amp...considering I only have one speaker wire going from the box. (I do not want to blow my subs)
(Ever hear of Hertz energy subs? Friend has a pair of these and the tinsel lead keeps blowing off...solutions?)
You may have 2 "pairs" of terminals, but that doesn't matter. Just hook up the +ve speaker wire to one of the +ves and the neg to one of the -ves-the amp internally parallels the terminals and the extra terminals are just to accomodate lots of speaker wire if needed.
Tinsel blowing? Needs to get them looked at by the supplier-shouldn't have that problem-if he keeps having it he's most likely underpowering and heating them up-bigger amp or bigger subs if he's got plenty of power on tap-he may be hitting the sub's limits. Also fake hertz about-but only heard of comp sets not subs. Have heard of issues with some cheap D-class amps causing this issue with HF nise sent down the speaker wires. What amp is it and what model/quantity of subs.
RE your hearing-bad luck, try and get yourself properly checked out-last thing you want is to completely lose it.
Tinsel blowing? Needs to get them looked at by the supplier-shouldn't have that problem-if he keeps having it he's most likely underpowering and heating them up-bigger amp or bigger subs if he's got plenty of power on tap-he may be hitting the sub's limits. Also fake hertz about-but only heard of comp sets not subs. Have heard of issues with some cheap D-class amps causing this issue with HF nise sent down the speaker wires. What amp is it and what model/quantity of subs.
RE your hearing-bad luck, try and get yourself properly checked out-last thing you want is to completely lose it.
Oh I'm not worried about it. I have ear plugs...also my hearing aids turn off completely turn off at anything about 100 dB.
Thanks for the wiring advice.
Yeah he has the comp subs. He underpowered them by 50 watts...but it was bs...because he was underpowering it by like 300 watts before he bought my kenwood amp. and he ran it for an hour and they blew.
Thanks for the wiring advice.
Yeah he has the comp subs. He underpowered them by 50 watts...but it was bs...because he was underpowering it by like 300 watts before he bought my kenwood amp. and he ran it for an hour and they blew.
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