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Old 5th September 2011, 10:03 PM   #1
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: UK
Default PG Tantrum 1200.1

Hello,

I've just picked up a Tantrum 1200.1 which was initially in a power up protect mode loop. I checked the output FETs and found one channel to be short cct so I've removed them. On testing the 4 FETs only 2 were short but all 4 are still removed. The amp now powers up but there is 3 volts across the speaker terminals. Is this just because the output FETs in one channel are removed? Also is there anything else I should be looking out for on this amp?

Thanks

Nick
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Old 5th September 2011, 10:31 PM   #2
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Northern California
The big black Tripath module likes to die in very grotesques ways. One of which is errant DC offset voltages on the outputs. The other way is dead silence. Rarely does a output fail that there is no damage to the Tripath driver modules which have been out of production for 5 or 6 years now and are pretty much impossible to find reasonable anywhere at any price worth paying.

This amp is a Full H bridge design which means all outputs must be in service for the amp to operate properly as they are bridged internally. Yes you might have a 3 volt signal that gets cancelled when the other half of the channel is operating properly, but here again please refer to the above comment about availability of the tripath module, and be advised that bad outputs usually mean bad drivers inside the module and in most cases these drivers are NOT repairable. Sorry to bear bad news, I own two of them, and know if they toss there tripath modules they are door stops. All amp makers that used these tripath modules stopped supporting them as their supplies of modules ran out. PG did over 4 years ago now.
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Old 6th September 2011, 06:52 AM   #3
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Hi Cecil,

Thanks for the update. I now know why it was cheap.

I've ordered the new outputs now so I'll drop them in and see what happens but like you said I've just got myself a door stop.

I'll keep you posted.

Nick
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Old 6th September 2011, 09:27 AM   #4
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Location: Louisiana
If you find that the module is defective, grind the top off of it by grinding a bevel around the top perimeter on a belt sander until you cut through (method least likely to damage internals). Then examine the internal components with a lighted magnifying glass. It may be repairable if there is no damage to the signal processor.
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Old 6th September 2011, 09:50 AM   #5
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Hey Perry,

Thanks for the info. Hopefully it won't come to that but I'll find out in the next couple of days once the replacement outputs has arrived.

Nick
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Old 7th September 2011, 01:42 PM   #6
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Hello,

I've replaced the output FETs and the amp will power up but there seems to be some audio on the output without any input which I guess is caused by the Tripath. I have managed to source two new TA0103s but before I install one is there anything I should be checking for to ensure that I don't cause the new one to fail?

Thanks

Nick
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Old 7th September 2011, 04:56 PM   #7
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Oops!! I've just rechecked the output on the amp on my scope and what I saw was in fact 5Mhz 4v p-p. I think I've seen Perry or someone talk about this before on this type of amp so nothing for me to worry about?

Anyway I've connected up an audio source and a speaker to the output and all seems to be good. Thanks for your help and advice.

Nick
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Old 7th September 2011, 05:37 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NickParr666 View Post
Hello,

I've replaced the output FETs and the amp will power up but there seems to be some audio on the output without any input which I guess is caused by the Tripath. I have managed to source two new TA0103s but before I install one is there anything I should be checking for to ensure that I don't cause the new one to fail?

Thanks

Nick

Ok your doing better then I did looking for the tripath chips, lucky you. Hope they did not cost too much. PM me your source please,,, thanks

There are several checks I would make and to start would be the lower 15 volt rails. they are Q-27 is +15 and Q-28 is -15 VDC. Also check U-101 which is a 5 volt regulator for the tripath chips needs only, it is a L7805CP device. It takes +15 and makes +5 for the T chip.
Check U-104 for + 10 VDC and check U-105 for -10 VDC, they derive this from the +&-15 supplies, and they are used for opto-coupler C and E. Check pin 19 of the T-chip for VN12REF, which is a 12 volt reference supply to the T-chip that comes from the fan supply R-14.
The high voltage rails do not have any set voltage rating, but with 63 volt caps both positive and negative I am sure its above 100 VDC and probably near 120 VDC across both rails or 50 to 60 for both positive and negative with respect to common ground secondary of the supply. As long as these are balanced I would worry too much about them.
PLEASE BE CAREFUL, any slip of the probe can cause a shock or flash damage to the amp while measuring the high voltage rails.

Check all fusible resistors here are the ID numbers, R-105, R-107, R-144, R-115, R-140, R-141, R-154, and R-161. These are the gate resistors for the outputs if any are not 4.7 ohms please replace them as they are out of spec.
R-120 and R-122 are 0 ohm jumpers between the two different grounds inside the amp, this will head off possible noise issues later on after the amp is functional.
Check R-100 2.2 ohms for the cooling fan it will open if a over current fan condition exists. this also makes sure the fan supply is functional so their is some cooling while in operation.
Timing resistors are R-133 and R-134 , they operate the timing controls and set by a table I have here, you should check that they are functional only. Timing is interchangeable 25ns, 65ns, 105ns, and 145ns. Again this setup by a sequence table I have here. Open or grounded sets timing.

R-137 and R-128 are DC offsets applied to the right and left inputs to the tripath chip. You may have to adjust these once the amp is operational for one reason or another to balance the T-chips operation.

R-102, R-119, R-138, and R-165 are current sense resistors for the output stage, they are 0.01 ohms and are used by the T-chip for its own internal protection current limiting. Check them for value of 0.01 ohms so the T-chip sees its current sense correctly. They are 3 watt devices so they will stand out prominently near the outputs.

RT-1 and RT-2 are 2.2k @ 80 C temp sensors. I would check them as best as possible for proper over temp protection. by their rating a reasonable ohm reading should be Ok, and they should both read the same at room temperature.

R-31 is part of the 5.1 volt DC reference circuit and it is used to induce a over-power protection setup. You must test the amp at full un-clipped power into a dummy load to set this appropriately so it triggers shutdown to protect the amp at anything above ~1200 watts RMS into any load.

Voltage measurements with old chip in first, then resistance measurements after amp is powered down. once these tests are done the new chip can be safely installed and then you can test and align the T-chips circuitry and the three listed adjustments above. I would run it in for some time on a bench test setup just to validate all of your hard work before unleashing it upon the world, but that is just my way about these things, it's completely up to you once its operational...Hope this helps, please take the above at your own pace... C
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