Nakamichi stereo/mono

crazycody1993 · 2nd September 2011, 07:05 PM

So I have decided to put a stereo in my dads truck for him, Currently, it has no stereo at all, so i won a cheesy little 10 yesterday and wanted to use behind the seat.

My question is, i have a Nakamichi PA-1002, and in the manual it shows a simultaneous Stereo/Mono mode. I have seen this concept before, but my question is, in the diagram is Specifies a Minimum of 8 Ohms on the Subwoofer, but doesn't say anything about the Higher range Drivers, is it safe to use a 4 Ohm driver? or do i need to make them 8?

He has an older set of MB Quarts that came out of the truck, that i was going to re install, but if i need to wire a resister in series to make it an 8 ohm, i will do so.

bdgf2004 · 3rd September 2011, 05:52 PM

4 ohm should be okay but don't go any lower and make sure the subwoofer is 8 ohm or can be wired to 8 ohm. passive x-overs come in handy with a setup like this.

AKHeathen · 4th September 2011, 05:29 AM

the amp is rated 4ohm stable bridged. what this means, is that, since the 2 channels have a common terminal inside, that 4ohms per side =8ohms bridged. so that would make the 2-4ohm + the single bridged 8ohm a paralleled 2x8, aka 4ohm total load. are you planning on installing a resistor on the sub to make it 8ohm? or is it?

crazycody1993 · 4th September 2011, 06:30 PM

the sub is a dual 4, so i would series it to 8, and then like i said the Quarts are 4 ohm, with no extras in the doors, Also turns out my dad has an old Orion high current that needs a part! So i'm considering running that for the sub, and the nakamichi for the quarts, better plan? or should i stick with the mix/mono on the nakamichi?

AKHeathen · 5th September 2011, 05:09 AM

wel, ok, first, what are the model numbers for the sub and orion...... the orion might just cook that "cheap" sub in a heartbeat, or might be a good idea. just about any old school "high current" amp, is basically a cheater. i.e. a typical hc 200 would see real world 800rms @ 2ohms bridge, but then only leave you with 100x2 @ 2ohms, maybe 125. i clamped a 150x this summer at doing over 700rms@ 12v, where it was said to only do 650 on 14.4. i'm sure there was some in-audible clipping, since i didn't scope it, and that is where it really starts to get hazardous. by the way, you should have the mids crossed over from the sub with mixed mono, so you feed the bass to the sub, and not the mids. iirc, doing this can let you run a 4ohm sub, too, but i do not gaurantee it.

crazycody1993 · 6th September 2011, 08:59 PM

its a 250-HCCA. And my dad has had a lot of experiance with these old orions, and he has said the same thing. But the sub is pretty new. new enough the only information i can find on the internet is the same information in the manual. a Bass Inferno BIW10D4, never heard of it before, but i got it for free, and decided to build a stereo for my dad. it claims 1500 peak, but i have my doubts, i would guess it to be a 300 watt driver,

2nd September 2011, 07:05 PM	#1
crazycody1993 diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Oregon	Nakamichi stereo/mono So I have decided to put a stereo in my dads truck for him, Currently, it has no stereo at all, so i won a cheesy little 10 yesterday and wanted to use behind the seat. My question is, i have a Nakamichi PA-1002, and in the manual it shows a simultaneous Stereo/Mono mode. I have seen this concept before, but my question is, in the diagram is Specifies a Minimum of 8 Ohms on the Subwoofer, but doesn't say anything about the Higher range Drivers, is it safe to use a 4 Ohm driver? or do i need to make them 8? He has an older set of MB Quarts that came out of the truck, that i was going to re install, but if i need to wire a resister in series to make it an 8 ohm, i will do so.

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3rd September 2011, 05:52 PM	#2
bdgf2004 diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2010	4 ohm should be okay but don't go any lower and make sure the subwoofer is 8 ohm or can be wired to 8 ohm. passive x-overs come in handy with a setup like this.

4th September 2011, 05:29 AM	#3
AKHeathen diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Anchorage AK	the amp is rated 4ohm stable bridged. what this means, is that, since the 2 channels have a common terminal inside, that 4ohms per side =8ohms bridged. so that would make the 2-4ohm + the single bridged 8ohm a paralleled 2x8, aka 4ohm total load. are you planning on installing a resistor on the sub to make it 8ohm? or is it?

4th September 2011, 06:30 PM	#4
crazycody1993 diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Oregon	the sub is a dual 4, so i would series it to 8, and then like i said the Quarts are 4 ohm, with no extras in the doors, Also turns out my dad has an old Orion high current that needs a part! So i'm considering running that for the sub, and the nakamichi for the quarts, better plan? or should i stick with the mix/mono on the nakamichi?

5th September 2011, 05:09 AM	#5
AKHeathen diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Anchorage AK	wel, ok, first, what are the model numbers for the sub and orion...... the orion might just cook that "cheap" sub in a heartbeat, or might be a good idea. just about any old school "high current" amp, is basically a cheater. i.e. a typical hc 200 would see real world 800rms @ 2ohms bridge, but then only leave you with 100x2 @ 2ohms, maybe 125. i clamped a 150x this summer at doing over 700rms@ 12v, where it was said to only do 650 on 14.4. i'm sure there was some in-audible clipping, since i didn't scope it, and that is where it really starts to get hazardous. by the way, you should have the mids crossed over from the sub with mixed mono, so you feed the bass to the sub, and not the mids. iirc, doing this can let you run a 4ohm sub, too, but i do not gaurantee it.

6th September 2011, 08:59 PM	#6
crazycody1993 diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Oregon	its a 250-HCCA. And my dad has had a lot of experiance with these old orions, and he has said the same thing. But the sub is pretty new. new enough the only information i can find on the internet is the same information in the manual. a Bass Inferno BIW10D4, never heard of it before, but i got it for free, and decided to build a stereo for my dad. it claims 1500 peak, but i have my doubts, i would guess it to be a 300 watt driver,

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