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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Gainesville, FL
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The power supply was blown when I got this.
The drivers are BCX55s. There are BCX55, BCX55-10 and BCX55-16. Are these just the plain BCX55s?
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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They are all the same basic transistor but the -10 and -16 have higher gain than the one with no suffix.
Are you sure that this is the transistor you want? The 2SB1260 is marked with BE like the BCX55 but is a PNP transistor (BCX55 is an NPN). The 2SB1260 is much more common. Look in the 'semiconductor datasheets' folder in the section 'Transistor marked BE...'.
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Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Gainesville, FL
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That's probably right, I haven't seen NPNs drive a power supply before, I was kind of wondering about that.
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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In power supply drive circuits...
NPN transistors are generally only used with PNP transistors. Many times, PNP transistors are used without NPN transistors so if there is only one drive transistor per bank, they're almost certainly PNP transistors.
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Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Gainesville, FL
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I finally decided to dig into this amp again.
I soldered some KTA1266GRs in the place of the 2SB1260s for testing purposes. The amp has 22ohm gate resistors in the power supply so I replaced the 50N06s with 3205s. It powers up and everything looks clean. My question is, I'm kind of broke and those are what I have on hand, if I use some fixative on the A1266s so they don't break, do you think this amp may just be fine the way I have it? I know you would rather use original components but aren't power supplies kind of forgiving being that they don't switch too fast?
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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The 1266s are used to drive 3205s in other amps so they will likely be OK here. I'm assuming that this is your personal amp and not an amp for a paying customer.
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Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Gainesville, FL
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Yes it is, it was returned when an output failed and blew the power supply. I took it in trade for labor and it's going into my car.
Thanks a lot!
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Gainesville, FL
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Well, it seems to be protecting when you turn it up past a certain point.
I'm looking for the 2SB1260, all I can find is 2SB1260T100 Q, R, and P. Q has the highest hFe, is that the one I should be looking for?
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Gainesville, FL
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Actually, I guess R is the highest hFe but Q seems to be the most readily available.
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Any of those should work.
If it's going into protect, Q7 and Q11 on the audio driver board are suspect.
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Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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