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Old 13th November 2011, 04:22 PM   #11
m4ick is offline m4ick  United States
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That's probably it, it did sound a little distorted.
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Old 13th November 2011, 04:31 PM   #12
m4ick is offline m4ick  United States
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Ok, I replaced Q11 already but I have ordered some mmbta92s for Q7.
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Old 14th December 2011, 07:35 PM   #13
m4ick is offline m4ick  United States
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I replaced Q7 and Q11 but have not tested it under load. I did notice, though, that these two components show evidence of heat stress. Any idea why these would heat up like that?
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Old 14th December 2011, 11:02 PM   #14
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I can't think of any reason that the cap would get hot unless too much voltage was applied. The resistor is probably part of the protection circuit. Sometimes, when an amp stays in protection for long periods of time, components that would not ordinarily get ho do so because the voltage across them isn't what it would be under normal operating conditions.
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Old 15th December 2011, 01:07 AM   #15
m4ick is offline m4ick  United States
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The resistor is within tolerance and I can see the cap charge with the DMM set for diode check.

You were right, though. Even though the drive signal looked OK at idle replacing Q11 and Q7 as well has resolved the protection issue. It sounds great now.

Thanks again Perry, one more notch on the belt.
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Old 22nd October 2012, 02:01 PM   #16
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Default old thread?

I have the same amp and do have a question about this amp, and board you show. U1 & U3 on my look exactly the same as yours, heat damaged, or are these supposed to look like that? no numbers visable for replacement.
Mine powers up just fine, but there is no audio out. does not go into protect.
no other visably burnt parts, and now Im looking to see if I can somehow find a way to input a signal to bypass the board to see if the outputs are somehow bad but not showing signs. also is the Relay supposed to engage after amp turn on and turn off (click)
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