I'm having trouble with my system right now and i need some advice... i was running 2 kicker CVRs in a slot ported box running off of a 1400 watt 2 channel crunch amp turned all the way up... the peak power for the CVRs are 1000 watts peak power and 500 RMS. I just went out and bought a new amp (power acoustic, 2600 watt amp) im running it off of a 80 watt fuse and 4 gauge wire from the amp to the battery and negative wire RCA cables are hooked up right and amp is on with no problems cutting out... but ever since i upped the amp power (amp is turned up all the way) my subs havent been hitting that hard as they used to with the 1400 crunch. I'm almost half tempted to take apart my dash and replacing my RCAs, remote wire and running a bigger fuse (100 watt) any ideas on what is going on with this new amp and why it's not pushing more power then the 1400?
well, first off, please stop turning them all the way up, that does not get you more power, it just makes the amp more sensitive, which means you can reach distortion real quick, and have less controll over the output. now, it may have to do with what ohm load you have it wired at. different amps run differently at different ohm load. for instance, a 2ohm stable amp can reach it's most power on a 2 om load. now you put in a 1ohm stable amp of the same power to the same 2ohm load, it will generally only put out about half as much. also, when you look at what an amp puts out, you need to look at the rms rating, not max. max really means nothing. about the fuse- bigger fuse does not get you more power. the amp will only draw x amount of current, so you put a fuse 3x that size, and it's still going to draw the same power. the fuse you put in there, however, needs to be at least as big as the amplifier fusing, but no bigger than what the wire is rated to. so, an 80, or 100 will work fine, but i would not suggest larger.
I was running them past the lowest rated load on both... just because i knew the subs would handle them. As far as the new amp i was told not to turn it past halfway.
So probably run the amp about half way? And theres a subsonic passover on the amp should i keep that up or turn that down halfway too?
The specs for my amp.
Common Features
[SIZE=-1]Full Mosfet Power Supply [/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]PWM Circuitry [/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Full Selectable Crossover Hi/Full/Low [/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Three Way Protection Circuit [/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]2ohm Stable Stereo [/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Tri-Mode Capable [/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Variable Low Pass 40Hz-120Hz [/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Variable Hi Pass 150Hz-1.5Khz [/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Variable 18dB Bass Boost @ 40Hz. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Frequency Response: 10Hz to 30Khz [/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]S/N Ratio:97 db [/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]THD: 0.02% [/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]System Distress Indicator [/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]High/Low Level inputs With Floating Ground [/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Spade Terminals [/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Top Chrome Plate [/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Platinum RCA Connectors [/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Line output[/SIZE]
And the website for the specs of the subs. CompVR Aluminized | KICKER
Common Features
[SIZE=-1]Full Mosfet Power Supply [/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]PWM Circuitry [/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Full Selectable Crossover Hi/Full/Low [/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Three Way Protection Circuit [/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]2ohm Stable Stereo [/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Tri-Mode Capable [/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Variable Low Pass 40Hz-120Hz [/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Variable Hi Pass 150Hz-1.5Khz [/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Variable 18dB Bass Boost @ 40Hz. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Frequency Response: 10Hz to 30Khz [/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]S/N Ratio:97 db [/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]THD: 0.02% [/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]System Distress Indicator [/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]High/Low Level inputs With Floating Ground [/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Spade Terminals [/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Top Chrome Plate [/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Platinum RCA Connectors [/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Line output[/SIZE]
And the website for the specs of the subs. CompVR Aluminized | KICKER
well, are they dual2 or dual4 ohm coils? you should be running d2's on there, and wire it series-parallel, basically wire them up to 4ohm, and then parallel them to a 2ohm load. the amp will not support below 2ohms total load, and you probably loose half power at 4ohms, but will blow it at 1ohms....
My buddy was actually going to sell me his jl audio amp when he got his new one but I figured with this I would at least try it out now. But I'm at work just went outside to listen to my radio and my subs are nowlosing sound a little bit on some parts when turned up medium volume I'm guessing its a level problem but I could be wrong now that I'm running the 1 ohm on a 2 ohm amp
well, when you go past loud, and start "loosing sound" you have gone beyond clipping the amp, and it will cook. supprised, well not really, that it has not shut down, or went protect on the 1ohm load. another thing to pay attention to, is that source voltage will directly effect output. so, if the car is off, or just idling, your voltage will be lower then while driving
You need to confirm that you have sufficient power supply voltage when the amp is driven hard. With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter probe on the ground terminal of the amp (not on the point where the ground wire connected to the vehicle) and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red probe alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts on either the B+ or remote line, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low. If 'both' the B+ and remote turn-on lines are low and your battery is fully charged, you may have a bad ground connection.
Again, do this when the amp is driven hard, not at idle (little or no output).
Again, do this when the amp is driven hard, not at idle (little or no output).
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