Help!!!!

[NtrlBrnRacer90]

I'm having trouble with my system right now and i need some advice... i was running 2 kicker CVRs in a slot ported box running off of a 1400 watt 2 channel crunch amp turned all the way up... the peak power for the CVRs are 1000 watts peak power and 500 RMS. I just went out and bought a new amp (power acoustic, 2600 watt amp) im running it off of a 80 watt fuse and 4 gauge wire from the amp to the battery and negative wire RCA cables are hooked up right and amp is on with no problems cutting out... but ever since i upped the amp power (amp is turned up all the way) my subs havent been hitting that hard as they used to with the 1400 crunch. I'm almost half tempted to take apart my dash and replacing my RCAs, remote wire and running a bigger fuse (100 watt) any ideas on what is going on with this new amp and why it's not pushing more power then the 1400?

[Perry Babin]

Were you running the original amp at or below its lowest rated load?

Do you have the new amp running at the lowest rated load?

[AKHeathen]

well, first off, please stop turning them all the way up, that does not get you more power, it just makes the amp more sensitive, which means you can reach distortion real quick, and have less controll over the output. now, it may have to do with what ohm load you have it wired at. different amps run differently at different ohm load. for instance, a 2ohm stable amp can reach it's most power on a 2 om load. now you put in a 1ohm stable amp of the same power to the same 2ohm load, it will generally only put out about half as much. also, when you look at what an amp puts out, you need to look at the rms rating, not max. max really means nothing. about the fuse- bigger fuse does not get you more power. the amp will only draw x amount of current, so you put a fuse 3x that size, and it's still going to draw the same power. the fuse you put in there, however, needs to be at least as big as the amplifier fusing, but no bigger than what the wire is rated to. so, an 80, or 100 will work fine, but i would not suggest larger.

[NtrlBrnRacer90]

I was running them past the lowest rated load on both... just because i knew the subs would handle them. As far as the new amp i was told not to turn it past halfway.

Originally Posted by Perry Babin

Were you running the original amp at or below its lowest rated load?

Do you have the new amp running at the lowest rated load?

[NtrlBrnRacer90]

So probably run the amp about half way? And theres a subsonic passover on the amp should i keep that up or turn that down halfway too?

Originally Posted by AKHeathen

well, first off, please stop turning them all the way up, that does not get you more power, it just makes the amp more sensitive, which means you can reach distortion real quick, and have less controll over the output. now, it may have to do with what ohm load you have it wired at. different amps run differently at different ohm load. for instance, a 2ohm stable amp can reach it's most power on a 2 om load. now you put in a 1ohm stable amp of the same power to the same 2ohm load, it will generally only put out about half as much. also, when you look at what an amp puts out, you need to look at the rms rating, not max. max really means nothing. about the fuse- bigger fuse does not get you more power. the amp will only draw x amount of current, so you put a fuse 3x that size, and it's still going to draw the same power. the fuse you put in there, however, needs to be at least as big as the amplifier fusing, but no bigger than what the wire is rated to. so, an 80, or 100 will work fine, but i would not suggest larger.

[NtrlBrnRacer90]

The specs for my amp.

Common Features
Full Mosfet Power Supply
PWM Circuitry
Full Selectable Crossover Hi/Full/Low
Three Way Protection Circuit
2ohm Stable Stereo
Tri-Mode Capable
Variable Low Pass 40Hz-120Hz
Variable Hi Pass 150Hz-1.5Khz
Variable 18dB Bass Boost @ 40Hz.
Frequency Response: 10Hz to 30Khz
S/N Ratio:97 db
THD: 0.02%
System Distress Indicator
High/Low Level inputs With Floating Ground
Spade Terminals
Top Chrome Plate
Platinum RCA Connectors
Line output

And the website for the specs of the subs. CompVR Aluminized | KICKER

[AKHeathen]

well, are they dual2 or dual4 ohm coils? you should be running d2's on there, and wire it series-parallel, basically wire them up to 4ohm, and then parallel them to a 2ohm load. the amp will not support below 2ohms total load, and you probably loose half power at 4ohms, but will blow it at 1ohms....

[NtrlBrnRacer90]

I bridged the amp hoping that it wouldn't blow just out of curiousity and have everything turned up but the level about a quarter way and it sounds good and hits harder I'm thinking about keeping this set up since the amp isn't over heating

[NtrlBrnRacer90]

Ill upload a video too so you can see what it looks like

[DJNUBZ]

Your first problem is that those amps are rated at peak power. Please post their RMS and what the lowest stable load they can take.

When dealing with super entry level products, you get what you pay for. Why don't you pick up a kicker or JL sub amp. Then your subs will be the weak link.