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Old 6th January 2012, 05:50 AM   #21
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Good point I didnt catch that or it didnt sink in. I will check the regulators.

Thanks.
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Old 6th January 2012, 06:08 AM   #22
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Q29 power supply section regulator that is soldered to the board.........

There are only 2 legs on it......the in and out leg.........why is the middle leg missing? Isnt the middle leg the adjustable part of the regulator or the voltage reference?

Shouldnt the middle leg be on this regulator?
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Old 6th January 2012, 06:35 AM   #23
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That leg is suppose to be missing I have figured that much out.
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Old 6th January 2012, 06:51 AM   #24
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I am going to post readings of regulators including negative...........

Q14 LM337

pin1: -15.21
pin2: -26.99
pin3: -15.49

Q28 LM337

pin1: -4.69
pin2: -20.00
pin3: -5.96

Q13 LM317

pin1: 14.92
pin2: 16.22
pin3: 26.82

Q27 LM317

pin1: 4.83
pin2: 6.09
pin3: 16.85

Q5 LM317

pin1: 9.69
pin2: 10.95
pin3: 17.00

Q29 LM317

Pin1: 9.15
pin2: cut off and not used
pin3: 17.52

Q28 LM337 and Q27 LM317 are much lower than the rest any thoughts on that?
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Old 6th January 2012, 07:19 AM   #25
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Perry read the results of my last post before this one.

I tested the regulators on a working T3001 and got the exact same readings as the unit being repaired. I dont think the regulators are an issue.

I checked the outputs on the scope on the working 3000 and the drains for 8 outputs have a square waveform and the other 8 the gates have a square waveform.

When testing the bad 3000 I can kinda of see the waveform but its pulsing very fast and hard to read.

Something is causing the output side of the board to pulse all of the signals all over the board, I think something from the power supply is perhaps sending a faulty signal to the output board and causing havoc but I am not for sure.
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Old 6th January 2012, 03:13 PM   #26
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The LM317 has 6v out. That's correct. Is R68 open?
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Old 6th January 2012, 09:48 PM   #27
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No it reads 0.000 ohms so I have to assume its ok.

What about the LM339 the U1 not the U5. It reads as follows......

Pin 1: 4.10
pin 2: 4.10
Pin 3: 16.0-17.0 fluctuating
pin 4: 4.35
pin 5: 4.98
pin 6: 4.98
pin 7: 8.20
pin 8: 4.33
pin 9: 2.750
pin10: 0.161
pin11: 1.630
pin12: 0.001
pin13: 5.0-7.0 bouncing all over the place
pin14: 0.075


pins 4-7 are inputs as well as pins 8-11.

3 being vcc and 12 being ground.

pins 4 and 5 feed pin 2 (1out)

pins 6 and 7 feed pin 1 (2out)

pins 10 and 11 feed pin 13 (4out)

Pins 8 and 9 feed pin 14 (3out)

Pin 14 has no output and I was wondering if the output from 14 supplied the 6 volts for the on delay?

I have been looking at the schematic closely and trying to determine if the right pins have the right voltage. I am not sure what some of the abbreviations mean though. As far as like P.S, S.D, and SD

For some reason when I test pin 11 for voltage the amp goes into protect and then the thermal light flashes on and off and the protect light is on but flickering.

I dont know if its relavent but thought it was kinda strange. What do you think?
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Old 6th January 2012, 09:49 PM   #28
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Let's stick with the 6v issue. Are you saying that on the good 3000 that there was no +6v on the op-amps?
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Old 6th January 2012, 10:13 PM   #29
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Yes it did have +6v on the good amp.

I somehow got my pins mixed up on the amp we are testing. Probably late and very tired.

U304

pin1: -4.66
pin2: 0.072
pin3: -4.38
pin4: -5.96
pin5: 2.173
pin6: 0.275
pin7: 5.49
pin8: 6.09

U306

pin1: -4.37
pin2: -1.636
pin3: -1.678
pin4: -5.96
pin5: 0.001
pin6: -0.008
pin7: 4.37
pin8: 6.09

So I am getting the positive 6v on the pin 8 on both op-amps

I changed U304, U306, and U307 and the amp still is doing the exact same thing.
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Old 7th January 2012, 04:51 AM   #30
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So now that I have cleared up my mistake and we have the +6v as we should (my appologies) what do you think of my findings on the LM339D (U1)?
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