Hey all...it's my 1st post, but this site comes up on a lot of my google searches, so I figured I'd ask for some help.
I'm fixing up a '70 Chevy Blazer 2wd. If you're not familiar with it, it's got a fully removable top which I have never had on. I've read this could be a problem with hearing music/bass on the freeway. I've never had a stereo in it, but have picked up a few parts to get me started:
Deck: Kenwood KDC-X994
Components: Polk Audio MM6501
Amp: Kenwood (don't remember the model, but I think it puts out 150w rms)
Deadener: I have enough to cover most of the floor/doors
Nothing is installed yet, and I still need to build my 1st ever kick panels
My next purchase is sub(s)/amp and figure out the best enclosure. My goal is to have a good-to-great sounding system that is well balanced and can be heard if not loud on the freeway.
I've always wanted 12's since I've only had 10's in the past, and have been looking at the RE Audio SEx's. My concern is would this be too much for my highs to keep up with? If so, what would you recommend and how you would build the enclosure? I've built about 6 enclosures now, but all sealed. I don't mind building a ported one, but I'd need A LOT of help with the design because the port tuning confuses me.
Thanks in advance, and here's some pics of the Blazer so you know what I'm working with:
I'm fixing up a '70 Chevy Blazer 2wd. If you're not familiar with it, it's got a fully removable top which I have never had on. I've read this could be a problem with hearing music/bass on the freeway. I've never had a stereo in it, but have picked up a few parts to get me started:
Deck: Kenwood KDC-X994
Components: Polk Audio MM6501
Amp: Kenwood (don't remember the model, but I think it puts out 150w rms)
Deadener: I have enough to cover most of the floor/doors
Nothing is installed yet, and I still need to build my 1st ever kick panels
My next purchase is sub(s)/amp and figure out the best enclosure. My goal is to have a good-to-great sounding system that is well balanced and can be heard if not loud on the freeway.
I've always wanted 12's since I've only had 10's in the past, and have been looking at the RE Audio SEx's. My concern is would this be too much for my highs to keep up with? If so, what would you recommend and how you would build the enclosure? I've built about 6 enclosures now, but all sealed. I don't mind building a ported one, but I'd need A LOT of help with the design because the port tuning confuses me.
Thanks in advance, and here's some pics of the Blazer so you know what I'm working with:
Oh, guess I should mention that I listen to mostly rap/hip-hop and then it's rock or R&B. My current power/electrical system isn't all that great, but I have a 100 amp alt. My trunk space is pretty big. I do have my air ride tank and a box holding all the valves back there already, but I'm willing to redesign/reposition that to make room for a box if necessary. I only drive this thing where I'll be around it the majority of the time, so it doesn't need to be weather proof or really theft deterant either. Thanks again!
If you keep the top off while your going down the highway you are going to lose most of the energy the subs deliver right out the roof. That is if you put the subs in the back.
If memory serves me the old school blazers have a lot of room between the seats. I would reccomend building a center console with downfiring subs in it. This should allow you to at least feel good strong bass even at highway speeds.
If memory serves me the old school blazers have a lot of room between the seats. I would reccomend building a center console with downfiring subs in it. This should allow you to at least feel good strong bass even at highway speeds.
Thanks hooligan72. My top isn't in good shape right now, but a few years from now that might be different. Unfortunately, the center console isn't an option. I already have a stock center console that I paid too much for and can't cut it up/modify it to fit a sub.
Rather than the rear, would putting the subs in the middle of the blazer be ok? I could possibly make a box that's long and shallow that runs across the entire sides and have the sub facing the center of the cab. The actual location could be between the front seats and rear bench. Is it purely volume (not depth or anything) that matters when building an enclosure?
Rather than the rear, would putting the subs in the middle of the blazer be ok? I could possibly make a box that's long and shallow that runs across the entire sides and have the sub facing the center of the cab. The actual location could be between the front seats and rear bench. Is it purely volume (not depth or anything) that matters when building an enclosure?
You are going to have some acoustical problems no matter what you do since it won't be in an enclosed space. People get away with relatively little power to subs in a vehicle because the bass resonates in the cab, effectively amplifying the sound. Take that away and you'll have to have much more power to get the same dB level -- perhaps 5x+ more power (if its in the trunk, though that depends on many things.
Though while driving, you would need even more than that. I wouldn't suggest anything less than 1kw RMS. Those RE subs should do well. A JBL 1200.1 would work very well with them, and you should be able to get one used on ebay for $250-300. It is rated at 1200w RMS @ 2 & 1 ohms, though they actually put out 1400 or so RMS at 14.4v. Those subs (600w RMS each, with 2 ohm DVC's) can be wired for a 2 ohm load on the amp. The only question would be keeping the amp fed... but that's a question for someone else.
Though while driving, you would need even more than that. I wouldn't suggest anything less than 1kw RMS. Those RE subs should do well. A JBL 1200.1 would work very well with them, and you should be able to get one used on ebay for $250-300. It is rated at 1200w RMS @ 2 & 1 ohms, though they actually put out 1400 or so RMS at 14.4v. Those subs (600w RMS each, with 2 ohm DVC's) can be wired for a 2 ohm load on the amp. The only question would be keeping the amp fed... but that's a question for someone else.
Thanks for all the responses! I never got an email and figured no one was responding...
So, I take it 2 12"ers are recommended over 1, and I'm noting the minimum of 1K watts. I like the idea of the used amp to save money, but is buying a used amp safe/recommended?
So, I have a couple questions on a ported enclosure. Does pointing the port towards the driver help? I ask because if the port was on the bottom of the box, there'd be like a passage it would be facing going underneath the rear bench towards the driver seat. I don't know if this does anything, or is even recommended in a ported enclosure...
As for the top loading board, it's a good idea (I'm assuming it's just for being able to place things on top of it?). I'm hoping to actually build it as shallows as possible in order to retain some storage in the back. I would like to shallow and tall/wide if that's an option.
Given everything that's said, am I right in that I'm probably not going to have to worry about over powering my components with this type of set up? I looked the other day and my Polk components are 2 ohms 100 w, and the amp puts out that much at 2 ohms.
On another note (sorry, to have so many questions too), I know rear fill isn't the best for sound staging, but I guess I'll have to live with the fact that I'll never really have a good sound stage with no top...so, should I put in some rear fill speakers between the driver and rear bench for people in the rear to be able to hear?
Thanks again all!
So, I take it 2 12"ers are recommended over 1, and I'm noting the minimum of 1K watts. I like the idea of the used amp to save money, but is buying a used amp safe/recommended?
So, I have a couple questions on a ported enclosure. Does pointing the port towards the driver help? I ask because if the port was on the bottom of the box, there'd be like a passage it would be facing going underneath the rear bench towards the driver seat. I don't know if this does anything, or is even recommended in a ported enclosure...
As for the top loading board, it's a good idea (I'm assuming it's just for being able to place things on top of it?). I'm hoping to actually build it as shallows as possible in order to retain some storage in the back. I would like to shallow and tall/wide if that's an option.
Given everything that's said, am I right in that I'm probably not going to have to worry about over powering my components with this type of set up? I looked the other day and my Polk components are 2 ohms 100 w, and the amp puts out that much at 2 ohms.
On another note (sorry, to have so many questions too), I know rear fill isn't the best for sound staging, but I guess I'll have to live with the fact that I'll never really have a good sound stage with no top...so, should I put in some rear fill speakers between the driver and rear bench for people in the rear to be able to hear?
Thanks again all!
The cloth roof will not pressurize, so don't worry, you'll never have cabin gain. Two average 12" subwoofers at 2m will output about 110db. which should be enough to hear... 100 yards away... Subwoofers are omnidirectional, the direction you point the ports dosen't matter as long as there is enough space for the port to breath without interference. The top/loading board would have to be 7ft x 7ft long to effect a 40hz wave... i wouldn't bother.
suggestion: download WinISD Pro, ( LinearTeam ) read the help files, enjoy.
suggestion: download WinISD Pro, ( LinearTeam ) read the help files, enjoy.
X2!The cloth roof will not pressurize, so don't worry, you'll never have cabin gain. Two average 12" subwoofers at 2m will output about 110db. which should be enough to hear... 100 yards away... Subwoofers are omnidirectional, the direction you point the ports dosen't matter as long as there is enough space for the port to breath without interference. The top/loading board would have to be 7ft x 7ft long to effect a 40hz wave... i wouldn't bother.
suggestion: download WinISD Pro, ( LinearTeam ) read the help files, enjoy.
The top I have is actually a hard fiberglass top, so if it ever were on, my system would probably benefit a ton from it. However, I don't see that happening any time real soon.
Thanks for the link! I have Win7, but it still installed and works just fine. I've some of the help files (after installing the help.exe), and it's making me realize just how much I really don't know. It's nice that the program makes it simple enough even for a noob like me. I've seen a lot of enclosures on the web in build stages, so it's all coming together, but a little slowly since I don't understand the db/hz thing all that much. I've never really known the best settings for crossovers, so I just always turn the knobs until it sounds the best to my ears.
Based on what you guys have said so far, I need a pretty stout sub woofer/amp set up and a very well built box since they'll be in the rear of my ride. Given that and the software, I at least have a direction to go. As with every post, I have a couple more questions:
1. Are there any other speakers within the RE 12's price range (179.99 on sonicelectronix.com) that are a better bang for the buck? Or even would 1 15 be better than 2 12's?
2. Should I do a rear fill?
I'm going to run my Polks off a 4 channel, so I'll have 2 channels open.
Thanks for the link! I have Win7, but it still installed and works just fine. I've some of the help files (after installing the help.exe), and it's making me realize just how much I really don't know. It's nice that the program makes it simple enough even for a noob like me. I've seen a lot of enclosures on the web in build stages, so it's all coming together, but a little slowly since I don't understand the db/hz thing all that much. I've never really known the best settings for crossovers, so I just always turn the knobs until it sounds the best to my ears.
Based on what you guys have said so far, I need a pretty stout sub woofer/amp set up and a very well built box since they'll be in the rear of my ride. Given that and the software, I at least have a direction to go. As with every post, I have a couple more questions:
1. Are there any other speakers within the RE 12's price range (179.99 on sonicelectronix.com) that are a better bang for the buck? Or even would 1 15 be better than 2 12's?
2. Should I do a rear fill?
I'm going to run my Polks off a 4 channel, so I'll have 2 channels open.
Sorry to bring this back, but I'm back on the stereo again! Took some time off for prep of paint, but now looking at the sub enclosure design. I think I have my subs picked out and I'm wanting to go with 2 RE Audio SXX's powered by a Massive Audio N4. This combo fits my budget pretty well and from the reviews seems pretty decent (most of my old systems have been low quality stuff like Lightning Audio, Crunch, etc...so this should be a nice upgrade for me).
After a lot of research and reading, I'm hoping to build the enclosure as a downfiring box that's 4 cubic feet tuned at 33hz (just going off the RE audio's site recommendation for the speakers).
Here's what I can't understand about the enclosure since it's vented and downfiring:
1. Should I do the vents coming out of the bottom, back, top or do they HAVE to be on the same face as the speaker?
1a. If they do have to be on the same face, how do I make the stands NOT effect the port length (I'd like to do slot vents)
2. Should I build the box with a separator for each speaker and separate vents or can I just do 1 box with 1 vent?
Thanks for any help!
After a lot of research and reading, I'm hoping to build the enclosure as a downfiring box that's 4 cubic feet tuned at 33hz (just going off the RE audio's site recommendation for the speakers).
Here's what I can't understand about the enclosure since it's vented and downfiring:
1. Should I do the vents coming out of the bottom, back, top or do they HAVE to be on the same face as the speaker?
1a. If they do have to be on the same face, how do I make the stands NOT effect the port length (I'd like to do slot vents)
2. Should I build the box with a separator for each speaker and separate vents or can I just do 1 box with 1 vent?
Thanks for any help!
Thanks, Cr@sh! I'm going to try out the software posted earlier in this thread hopefully this week to see if it can help out with the design. It was on my old PC and haven't installed it yet to check it out. Do you happen to know if it handles putting vents anywhere you want?
I keep going a little back and forth on this, and if this box takes up all of my storage space I might be considering going back to the SEX's rather than the SXX's so I can build a sealed enclosure and not take up so much room. Anyone have any thoughts on this?
I keep going a little back and forth on this, and if this box takes up all of my storage space I might be considering going back to the SEX's rather than the SXX's so I can build a sealed enclosure and not take up so much room. Anyone have any thoughts on this?
It should (If it's any good software) give you a problem if you try and put a vent where it shouldn't be. Most I have used will give you a messed up number and from there you kinda know it's not going to work. I have learned from trial and error and a lot of reading, most by doing though.
Ok...back at it...after some looking and running numbers, I decided I cannot run a ported box in the back. It would literally take up my entire storage space and I need to at least be able to fit an ice chest back there...its' a MUST for the shows. The issue is 4 cubic ft as well as it needing to be about 6" off the floor.
So, I'm back to a sealed enclosure at about 1.3-1.5 cubic ft per speaker still downfiring. I'm going to build them seperately so they are on each side of the rig and the middle will be left open for the ice chest. I attached a picture of what I'm looking at for space...and plan to build an amp rack that will also hide the air tank behind the seat.
The only problem I'm having now is that the subs (RE SXx's) don't recommend to be in a sealed enclosure. Does anyone have any recommendations for a set of 12's that can handle 1k watts rms and like a sealed enclosure? I've been looking around and with my limited knowledge/experience I'm a little lost. I'd like to be in the $200 range per speaker if possible. Thanks!
So, I'm back to a sealed enclosure at about 1.3-1.5 cubic ft per speaker still downfiring. I'm going to build them seperately so they are on each side of the rig and the middle will be left open for the ice chest. I attached a picture of what I'm looking at for space...and plan to build an amp rack that will also hide the air tank behind the seat.
The only problem I'm having now is that the subs (RE SXx's) don't recommend to be in a sealed enclosure. Does anyone have any recommendations for a set of 12's that can handle 1k watts rms and like a sealed enclosure? I've been looking around and with my limited knowledge/experience I'm a little lost. I'd like to be in the $200 range per speaker if possible. Thanks!
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Thanks for the response, rock4016. I considered that, but thought 2 lower level sub (such as the SEx's) would be louder...am I wrong?
My rear area looks like a lot of room, but here's the dimensions:
26" deep (from tailgate to rear bench)
64" wide (from bedside to bedside)
18" tall (from floor to bedside top)
In reality, it's really only 20" deep due to air tank being in the way, and the biggest downfall is that the enclosure can only be about 12" tall volume wise due to the box being down firing. This makes for a really wide/long enclosure and probably goofy looking since in order to fit an ice chest back there, I'd have to put it towards one side.
I can't invision it any other way, so if you have any ideas I'm all ears!
My rear area looks like a lot of room, but here's the dimensions:
26" deep (from tailgate to rear bench)
64" wide (from bedside to bedside)
18" tall (from floor to bedside top)
In reality, it's really only 20" deep due to air tank being in the way, and the biggest downfall is that the enclosure can only be about 12" tall volume wise due to the box being down firing. This makes for a really wide/long enclosure and probably goofy looking since in order to fit an ice chest back there, I'd have to put it towards one side.
I can't invision it any other way, so if you have any ideas I'm all ears!
I like your other idea of using one 15. The RE XXX 15D2 is rated for 2000W rms, which is also what your Massive N4 is rated to put out at 1 ohm. A 3.2 cu ft box as per the manufacturer specs would probably give you the SPL levels you are looking for even with the top removed.
Sonicelectronix.com has them for $599 with free shipping (it weighs 100lbs)
You'd need 13.5" of mounting depth inside your box to fix the driver, so you may have to measure the space again.
If it doesn't fit there's several manufacturers that make 15" 2000W rms subs that might squeeze in there.
Sonicelectronix.com has them for $599 with free shipping (it weighs 100lbs)
You'd need 13.5" of mounting depth inside your box to fix the driver, so you may have to measure the space again.
If it doesn't fit there's several manufacturers that make 15" 2000W rms subs that might squeeze in there.
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Well from bed floor to bed rail, it's between 18 and 19 inches for sure...which means the 15" XXX is out of the question for a downfiring box since it would need at least 6" of elevation leaving only 12". On top of that, the space I'm working with is pretty awkward if I try to utilize it as much as possible due to the wheel tubs and air tank.
I know I'm asking a lot here, and I appreciate everyone's willingness to try. I guess my system is just going to have to be a compromise and the sound I really want just can't happen unless I'm willing to give up space.
The 15" has me thinking though...is there a big enough difference between 12's and 15's to switch...considering I go the sealed-downfiring enclosure route on each side?
I know I'm asking a lot here, and I appreciate everyone's willingness to try. I guess my system is just going to have to be a compromise and the sound I really want just can't happen unless I'm willing to give up space.
The 15" has me thinking though...is there a big enough difference between 12's and 15's to switch...considering I go the sealed-downfiring enclosure route on each side?
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