JL 500/1 rectifier replacment?

Klez · 18th July 2011, 12:06 AM

This is my first dive into car audio repair and I have searched the forum for quite a while, but could not find my answer.

JL 500/1 (D600)
It's listed:
T408
SFI606G

I have not found anything that crosses with this.

Thanks for any help

Perry Babin · 18th July 2011, 12:42 AM

The MUR1620CT will work.

These rarely fail. Are you sure that it's defective?

Klez · 18th July 2011, 04:36 PM

When I got it Q607 and Q606 were burnt. The other 6 Z44s were shorted to ground on two legs and the rectifier was shorted to ground on all 3 legs. After I removed all the Z44s the same two legs were shorted (at the pads) until I removed the rectifier. Now the pads at the rectifier only show ground on the outer pins and not the center (+) pin.

This is my first time so I am not 100% sure on anything.

Thanks for the reference part.

If you think I am going in the wrong direction let me know.

Thanks again!

Perry Babin · 18th July 2011, 07:29 PM

Did you check the output transistors?

Did you check the diode out of the circuit?

You'll have to replace all 8 power supply FETs and likely all of the 47 ohm gate resistors for the power supply FETs.

Klez · 18th July 2011, 08:09 PM

Yes all 4 checked out fine.

I don't know where that is located

All resistors checked out within tolerance.

Sorry this is my first amp repair

Perry Babin · 19th July 2011, 12:27 AM

I was referring to the rectifier diode that you believe to be shorted.

Klez · 20th July 2011, 01:32 AM

I have no voltage there.

Perry Babin · 20th July 2011, 07:37 AM

You would remove it from the circuit and check it.

Klez · 21st July 2011, 08:05 PM

Still no voltage.

Perry Babin · 21st July 2011, 09:51 PM

With the rectifier out of the circuit, does the rectifier still appear to be shorted?

18th July 2011, 12:06 AM	#1
Klez diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2011	JL 500/1 rectifier replacment? This is my first dive into car audio repair and I have searched the forum for quite a while, but could not find my answer. JL 500/1 (D600) It's listed: T408 SFI606G I have not found anything that crosses with this. Thanks for any help

18th July 2011, 12:42 AM	#2
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	The MUR1620CT will work. These rarely fail. Are you sure that it's defective? __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links

18th July 2011, 07:29 PM	#4
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	Did you check the output transistors? Did you check the diode out of the circuit? You'll have to replace all 8 power supply FETs and likely all of the 47 ohm gate resistors for the power supply FETs. __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links

19th July 2011, 12:27 AM	#6
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	I was referring to the rectifier diode that you believe to be shorted. __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links

20th July 2011, 07:37 AM	#8
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	You would remove it from the circuit and check it. __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links


	Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you. Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving

18th July 2011, 04:36 PM	#3
Klez diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2011	When I got it Q607 and Q606 were burnt. The other 6 Z44s were shorted to ground on two legs and the rectifier was shorted to ground on all 3 legs. After I removed all the Z44s the same two legs were shorted (at the pads) until I removed the rectifier. Now the pads at the rectifier only show ground on the outer pins and not the center (+) pin. This is my first time so I am not 100% sure on anything. Thanks for the reference part. If you think I am going in the wrong direction let me know. Thanks again!

18th July 2011, 08:09 PM	#5
Klez diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2011	Yes all 4 checked out fine. I don't know where that is located All resistors checked out within tolerance. Sorry this is my first amp repair

20th July 2011, 01:32 AM	#7
Klez diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2011	I have no voltage there.

21st July 2011, 08:05 PM	#9
Klez diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2011	Still no voltage.

21st July 2011, 09:51 PM	#10
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	With the rectifier out of the circuit, does the rectifier still appear to be shorted? __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
JL 500/1 Schematic	TotalNovice123	Car Audio	4	6th July 2011 03:27 AM
JL Audio 500/1	mike49504	Car Audio	1	15th August 2010 09:02 PM
help repairing JL 500/5	splicer13	Car Audio	18	9th August 2010 05:12 AM
Help with JL 500/1 2nd one	nsxxtreme	Car Audio	51	7th March 2008 02:17 PM
FS: JL 500/1 ($500 CAD located in GVA)	Dynamix Lude	Swap Meet	0	27th October 2004 03:21 AM

New To Site?	Need Help?
Register to Participate Search Privacy Statement Contact Us	Frequently Asked Questions Did you forget your password? Mark Forums Read