audio pipe

timwebb · 9th July 2011, 10:49 PM

anyone knows what side the pos and neg rectifiers go on a 1500 audio pipe?

Perry Babin · 10th July 2011, 03:20 AM

Is the board marked?

If not and the rectifiers are common cathode and common anode, follow the trace from the center leg to the rail cap terminals. The common cathode (diodes facing inward) will have it's center leg connected to the positive terminal of the rail caps.

timwebb · 10th July 2011, 03:30 AM

ok. i thought the power supply was fine when i was working on it cause it didnt over heat. i found some leaking transistors.and the center leg on the power supply transistors is 118v. im still getting that weird signal and the output card gets hot.

Perry Babin · 10th July 2011, 03:38 AM

118v? Are you sure your meter is working properly?

timwebb · 10th July 2011, 03:49 AM

i meant 11.8v sorry

timwebb · 10th July 2011, 04:13 AM

.

Perry Babin · 10th July 2011, 04:29 PM

This image is useless without more information. If you need help, you have to provide as much information as possible.

What were the scope timebase and vertical amp settings?

What point in the circuit was this taken from?

timwebb · 10th July 2011, 06:01 PM

volts/div .2 time/div 2us.
this was taken from the output inductor.

Perry Babin · 11th July 2011, 04:33 PM

Post a photo of the inside of the amp.

9th July 2011, 10:49 PM	#1
timwebb diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: memphis tn	audio pipe anyone knows what side the pos and neg rectifiers go on a 1500 audio pipe?

10th July 2011, 03:20 AM	#2
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	Is the board marked? If not and the rectifiers are common cathode and common anode, follow the trace from the center leg to the rail cap terminals. The common cathode (diodes facing inward) will have it's center leg connected to the positive terminal of the rail caps. __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links

10th July 2011, 03:38 AM	#4
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	118v? Are you sure your meter is working properly? __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links

10th July 2011, 04:29 PM	#7
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	This image is useless without more information. If you need help, you have to provide as much information as possible. What were the scope timebase and vertical amp settings? What point in the circuit was this taken from? __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links

11th July 2011, 04:33 PM	#9
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	Post a photo of the inside of the amp. __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links


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10th July 2011, 03:30 AM	#3
timwebb diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: memphis tn	ok. i thought the power supply was fine when i was working on it cause it didnt over heat. i found some leaking transistors.and the center leg on the power supply transistors is 118v. im still getting that weird signal and the output card gets hot.

10th July 2011, 03:49 AM	#5
timwebb diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: memphis tn	i meant 11.8v sorry

10th July 2011, 06:01 PM	#8
timwebb diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: memphis tn	volts/div .2 time/div 2us. this was taken from the output inductor.

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