My kenwood Kac-819 worked perfect for years in my old car. I took it out when I sold my car and now I installed in my new car with my Alpine CDA105 and it won't power up! I took it into Best buy and they bench tested it and it powered for a second but tripped their connection.... I don't understand what could have happened from one car to the next! I took it apart now and it looks clean and everything seems connected and nothing looks blown...
Please help.
Please help.
So if the output transistors are shorted or just one of them is, it would stop the whole amp from powering up?
Also nothing personal, but for basic that guide is WAY in depth and overwhelming...
If it will only cost me like $5 for all 4 output transistors then I would do that in a heartbeat!
How Do I Test them?
Also nothing personal, but for basic that guide is WAY in depth and overwhelming...
If it will only cost me like $5 for all 4 output transistors then I would do that in a heartbeat!
How Do I Test them?
The tests are producing conflicting results. I'm assuming that they used a power supply that works well to power up other amps. If that's true, enough current draw to shut it down should be sufficient to blow the fuses.
The outputs for this amp appear to be ~$10 each plus shipping (pacparts and kenwoodparts).
You should not read anything near 0 ohms between the legs of any individual transistor no matter the probe placement on that transistor.
The outputs for this amp appear to be ~$10 each plus shipping (pacparts and kenwoodparts).
You should not read anything near 0 ohms between the legs of any individual transistor no matter the probe placement on that transistor.
Well here is what found doing the ohms tests on all 4 of the output transistors. I had the meter set to 200k on the ohm setting.
The readings that I put 1__._ they are the same as no connection; probes not touching anything or themselves!
The readings that I put 1__._ they are the same as no connection; probes not touching anything or themselves!
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Those seem OK. The problem is likely elsewhere. reinstall it and confirm that you have proper voltage at the power terminals of the amp.
With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter probe on the ground terminal of the amp (not on the point where the ground wire connected to the vehicle) and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red probe alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts on either the B+ or remote line, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low. If 'both' the B+ and remote turn-on lines are low and your battery is fully charged, you may have a bad ground connection.
With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter probe on the ground terminal of the amp (not on the point where the ground wire connected to the vehicle) and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red probe alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts on either the B+ or remote line, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low. If 'both' the B+ and remote turn-on lines are low and your battery is fully charged, you may have a bad ground connection.
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