Rockford Fosgate Punch 500S - Page 3

Perry Babin · 14th July 2011, 11:51 PM

Did you try pulling the center leg on the rectifiers to see if that reduced the current draw?

Do one at a time if you haven't done this already.

Are any of the transistors or rectifiers heating up?

Are the outputs still out of the circuit?

seankane · 15th July 2011, 12:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Perry Babin

Did you try pulling the center leg on the rectifiers to see if that reduced the current draw?

Do one at a time if you haven't done this already.

Are any of the transistors or rectifiers heating up?

Are the outputs still out of the circuit?

I have not pulled the center leg of the rectifiers yet.

Only one channel has the output fets still in place the other channel has them removed, and there are no solder bridges.

None of the remaining output fets seem to be getting hot nor do the rectifiers.

So when I try to power up with the center leg removed of the rectifiers (one at a time) I should have the current limiting resistors not in line with the B+??

Perry Babin · 15th July 2011, 12:04 AM

Yes.

seankane · 15th July 2011, 12:13 AM

Powered up with center leg of CR2 removed and result was the amp would not power up.

Powered up with center leg of CR1 removed and result was the amp powered up fine and seem to have no issue.

Wierd??

Perry Babin · 15th July 2011, 12:15 AM

Was CR2 back in the circuit when you disconnected CR1?

seankane · 15th July 2011, 12:16 AM

YES

Perry Babin · 15th July 2011, 12:18 AM

If CR1 isn't leaking, I'd suspect a rail cap.

With NOTHING hooked to the amp, touch the 12v power supply across each of the rail caps (observing proper polarity). Does any cap cause any current flow after the initial charging?

seankane · 15th July 2011, 12:31 AM

The 3 on the CR1 side seem fine, but the 3 on the CR2 side arc pretty good when you apply power but none of them seem to be making my power supply draw current.

I removed one cap from the CR2 side and put power to it out of the circuit and it seemed fine holding 13.87 volts and slowly bleeding down.

Thinking CR2 is defective?

Perry Babin · 15th July 2011, 01:10 AM

I doubt that CR2 s defective if it powered up normally with it in the circuit.

Solder the legs for the rectifiers back to the board and disconnect the input legs of the voltage regulators. Does that reduce the excessive current draw?

seankane · 15th July 2011, 01:20 AM

I will try it.

Meanwhile I removed all the rail caps, and powered up the amp. It does not draw alot of current, but is a very choppy draw quickly pulsating up and down from 0 amps to 3 amps.

Shall I re-install the rail caps and try the voltage regulators next?

Can I power up the amp with the V/R input legs removed and the rail caps removed?

14th July 2011, 11:51 PM	#21
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	Did you try pulling the center leg on the rectifiers to see if that reduced the current draw? Do one at a time if you haven't done this already. Are any of the transistors or rectifiers heating up? Are the outputs still out of the circuit? __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links

15th July 2011, 12:04 AM	#23
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	Yes. __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links

15th July 2011, 12:13 AM	#24
seankane diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Washington State	Powered up with center leg of CR2 removed and result was the amp would not power up. Powered up with center leg of CR1 removed and result was the amp powered up fine and seem to have no issue. Wierd?? __________________ Pyramid 52 Amp Power Supply----Fluke 787 Processmeter----Tektronix 465 Scope----Velleman HPS40 Scope----Soldering Iron----Desoldering Iron----Hejet HJ 500-S Heatgun----DM4070 Digital LCR Meter----Propane Torch

15th July 2011, 12:15 AM	#25
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	Was CR2 back in the circuit when you disconnected CR1? __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links

15th July 2011, 12:16 AM	#26
seankane diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Washington State	YES __________________ Pyramid 52 Amp Power Supply----Fluke 787 Processmeter----Tektronix 465 Scope----Velleman HPS40 Scope----Soldering Iron----Desoldering Iron----Hejet HJ 500-S Heatgun----DM4070 Digital LCR Meter----Propane Torch


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15th July 2011, 12:18 AM	#27
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	If CR1 isn't leaking, I'd suspect a rail cap. With NOTHING hooked to the amp, touch the 12v power supply across each of the rail caps (observing proper polarity). Does any cap cause any current flow after the initial charging? __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links

15th July 2011, 12:31 AM	#28
seankane diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Washington State	The 3 on the CR1 side seem fine, but the 3 on the CR2 side arc pretty good when you apply power but none of them seem to be making my power supply draw current. I removed one cap from the CR2 side and put power to it out of the circuit and it seemed fine holding 13.87 volts and slowly bleeding down. Thinking CR2 is defective? __________________ Pyramid 52 Amp Power Supply----Fluke 787 Processmeter----Tektronix 465 Scope----Velleman HPS40 Scope----Soldering Iron----Desoldering Iron----Hejet HJ 500-S Heatgun----DM4070 Digital LCR Meter----Propane Torch

15th July 2011, 01:10 AM	#29
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	I doubt that CR2 s defective if it powered up normally with it in the circuit. Solder the legs for the rectifiers back to the board and disconnect the input legs of the voltage regulators. Does that reduce the excessive current draw? __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links

15th July 2011, 01:20 AM	#30
seankane diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Washington State	I will try it. Meanwhile I removed all the rail caps, and powered up the amp. It does not draw alot of current, but is a very choppy draw quickly pulsating up and down from 0 amps to 3 amps. Shall I re-install the rail caps and try the voltage regulators next? Can I power up the amp with the V/R input legs removed and the rail caps removed? __________________ Pyramid 52 Amp Power Supply----Fluke 787 Processmeter----Tektronix 465 Scope----Velleman HPS40 Scope----Soldering Iron----Desoldering Iron----Hejet HJ 500-S Heatgun----DM4070 Digital LCR Meter----Propane Torch

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