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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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I replaced the outputs in this amp also replaced the drivers for the outputs.
And also replaced Q4901 (C2690A) Q9301 and Q9302 -- B631K and a D600K get hot quickly . Amp has no output.. Wondering where i go from here? |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Those are voltage regulators. They're going to get hot quickly if they're not mounted to the heatsink. Clamp all transistors to the heatsink so you can troubleshoot the other problems.
Do you have positive and negative regulated voltage on the op-amps? Do you have positive and negative rail voltage on the outputs? Do you have audio on pins 1 and 7 of IC1801?
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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I have both + - 15 volts on all op-amps I have + - 45 volts of rail voltage. And i have audio on Pins 1 & 7 of IC 1801
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Did you replace ALL of the output transistors?
Did you replace both of the IR2010 driver ICs? When initially powering up the amp, do you see a pulse of DC on either of the speaker terminals?
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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Replaced both driver IC'S (2010S) Replaced all of the outputs.
If i stick the black probe on ground and red on either speaker terminal i get 13 volts on power up.. It i put the black probe on negative speaker terminal and red on the positive speaker terminal I get 0.26 volts when powering it up. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Post the DC voltage on the driver ICs. You only need to post for one if they're the same.
IC# Pin 1: Pin 2: Pin 3: Pin 4: Pin 5: Pin 6: Pin 7: Pin 8: Pin 9: Pin 10: Pin 11: Pin 12: Pin 13: Pin 14: Pin 15: Pin 16:
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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1:10.0
2:10.0 3:10.5 4:0.4 5:0.2 6:9.31 7:10.0 8:9.85 9:0 10:0 11:10.3 12:9.6 13:10.3 14:9.8 15:10.0 16:0.2 |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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It doesn't appear that the amp is producing rail voltage. Re-check it. If there is rail voltage, re-check the readings.
I post the lists so you can copy and paste them into they reply. They have all of the proper spaces to make it easier to read. Copying and pasting the lists will save time for you.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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Pin 1: -44.5
Pin 2: -45.1 Pin 3: -33.0 Pin 4: -0.7 Pin 5: -0.7 Pin 6: -1.0 Pin 7: -0.5 Pin 8: -0.4 Pin 9: 0 Pin 10: 0 Pin 11: -32.8 Pin 12: -44.3 Pin 13: -44.9 Pin 14: -44.2 Pin 15: -44.8 Pin 16: 0 |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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I'm not entirely familiar with the part of this amp that produces the oscillation so I'm going to borrow one (that I'll have to repair) so I can tell you what to check next.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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