Hello, whilst out in my car today listening to some beats, my sub box fell over and landed on top of my SPL Dynamics S2000D.
When I went in the boot to investigate I found the red protection light was on. I immediately switched off the amp and back on again. The green light was coming on for a few seconds, then a click, into protection. It was like this everytime I tried.
I took the amp apart looking for any visible damage and everything looked intact except for 1 resistor which I resolderd.
Then, like an idiot I tried the amp without the mosfet clamps and ended up burning 6 fets!
Before this happened the amp did not switch on at all...
I can get replacement fets for a few £GBP each but my question is, what would most likely shut down due to the shock?
I have successfully repaired 1 other amp before (I'm a bit of a newbie to all this!)
Any advice welcome - Thanks
When I went in the boot to investigate I found the red protection light was on. I immediately switched off the amp and back on again. The green light was coming on for a few seconds, then a click, into protection. It was like this everytime I tried.
I took the amp apart looking for any visible damage and everything looked intact except for 1 resistor which I resolderd.
Then, like an idiot I tried the amp without the mosfet clamps and ended up burning 6 fets!
Before this happened the amp did not switch on at all...
I can get replacement fets for a few £GBP each but my question is, what would most likely shut down due to the shock?
I have successfully repaired 1 other amp before (I'm a bit of a newbie to all this!)
Any advice welcome - Thanks
Excellent, thank you very much!
This is how the amplifier is at present.
As you can see, due to my neglect, I need to replace 6x IRFP064N mosfets and 2 of these... Not sure of the name but, it's parts Q7 & Q8 on the top right of the PWM board...
Other pictures;
As you can see, the yellow glue at the bottom of one big cap has a crack in it. I will go further into this in a moment...
I will upload a picture of what I soldered now.
This is how the amplifier is at present.
As you can see, due to my neglect, I need to replace 6x IRFP064N mosfets and 2 of these... Not sure of the name but, it's parts Q7 & Q8 on the top right of the PWM board...
Other pictures;
As you can see, the yellow glue at the bottom of one big cap has a crack in it. I will go further into this in a moment...
I will upload a picture of what I soldered now.
This is the area I hit with solder. I just thought it looked a little weak so went ahead and reinforced it... it's just the one spot.
Going back to when this first happened and the amp was still in the car. I turned it upside down whilst still on (in protect mode) and when I put my hand near this area, I could feel an electrical charge. I don't know if this helps at all?
Going back to when this first happened and the amp was still in the car. I turned it upside down whilst still on (in protect mode) and when I put my hand near this area, I could feel an electrical charge. I don't know if this helps at all?
In my opinion you need to replace ALL 12 IRFPs064 to make a reliable power supply.
Seems the two SOT223 transistors (Q7 and Q8) on the power supply board are the drivers.
In my case, someone got me an identical amp but never came back with the parts of the money for them. So, it is left as is. It was a truly fried amp (got fire inside).
Good luck with yours!
Seems the two SOT223 transistors (Q7 and Q8) on the power supply board are the drivers.
In my case, someone got me an identical amp but never came back with the parts of the money for them. So, it is left as is. It was a truly fried amp (got fire inside).
Good luck with yours!
The drivers are probably 2SB1260s. If not, the 1260 should be a good sub.
For most of these amps with the transistors that are perpendicular to the board, it's generally necessary to replace every heatsink mounted semiconductor. This applies to amps that don't have enough support for the board and the legs become weak and break off. If the legs break off of one, it's a good indicator that all (or most) will break shortly.
For most of these amps with the transistors that are perpendicular to the board, it's generally necessary to replace every heatsink mounted semiconductor. This applies to amps that don't have enough support for the board and the legs become weak and break off. If the legs break off of one, it's a good indicator that all (or most) will break shortly.
Thanks ultra, I can get the 12 fets and 2 transistors for about £35 (GBP). I'm just puzzled why the amplifier went into protect after the box hitting it. Is there anything on the board likely to fail with a shock?
By the marks on the casing, it would appear the box first made contact with the area I felt the electrical charge from... everything appears tight though.
By the marks on the casing, it would appear the box first made contact with the area I felt the electrical charge from... everything appears tight though.
Thanks Perry. I'll be buying my spares from here; RS Components | Electronic and Electrical Components
I can't seen to find the 1260's though... Would you care to advise?
I'm fairly new to this hobby but am really getting in to it
I can't seen to find the 1260's though... Would you care to advise?
I'm fairly new to this hobby but am really getting in to it
I didn't notice that you had a schematic diagram until after I posted. Did the schematic diagram give the driver part numbers? The originals may be available.
I've never tried either of these but either should work.
DiodesZetex | Semiconductors | Discretes | General Purpose Transistor | PNP Power |ZXTP2009ZTA
http://datasheet.octopart.com/ZXTP2009ZTA-Zetex-datasheet-120630.pdf
DiodesZetex | Semiconductors | Discretes | General Purpose Transistor | PNP Power |ZXTP2014ZTA
http://docs-europe.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/0e49/0900766b80e499c9.pdf
I've never tried either of these but either should work.
DiodesZetex | Semiconductors | Discretes | General Purpose Transistor | PNP Power |ZXTP2009ZTA
http://datasheet.octopart.com/ZXTP2009ZTA-Zetex-datasheet-120630.pdf
DiodesZetex | Semiconductors | Discretes | General Purpose Transistor | PNP Power |ZXTP2014ZTA
http://docs-europe.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/0e49/0900766b80e499c9.pdf
I'm not sure how the protection circuit LED is driven in this amp. Can you send me a copy of the diagram?
babin_perry@yahoo.com
babin_perry@yahoo.com
Email sent!
I don't know if it has any relevance but the schematic diagram states the fets are IRF064N but the fets I pulled from the board are IRFP064N.
I was going to order 12 of these;
International Rectifier | Semiconductors | Discretes | MOSFET | MOSFETs & JFETs - N-Channel |IRFP064NPBF
I don't know if it has any relevance but the schematic diagram states the fets are IRF064N but the fets I pulled from the board are IRFP064N.
I was going to order 12 of these;
International Rectifier | Semiconductors | Discretes | MOSFET | MOSFETs & JFETs - N-Channel |IRFP064NPBF
Most schematic diagrams have mistakes.
Those look like the right transistors.
In some amps, a blown power supply will cause the protect LED to light up. Here it doesn't appear that the protect LED should have been lit unless there was a fault in the audio section. Check all of the output transistors.
Amps that are laid out like these tend to break the legs on the heatsink mounted components. If one leg was on the verge of breaking, getting hit with the box could have caused it to fail.
If any outputs have weak legs or are shorted, the defective one and those in parallel with it will have to be replaced.
Soldering weakened legs from the top of the board to reinforce them really isn't an option because it will make the legs stiffer and will likely prevent the transistor from laying perfectly flat against the heatsink when the clips are reinstalled.
Those look like the right transistors.
In some amps, a blown power supply will cause the protect LED to light up. Here it doesn't appear that the protect LED should have been lit unless there was a fault in the audio section. Check all of the output transistors.
Amps that are laid out like these tend to break the legs on the heatsink mounted components. If one leg was on the verge of breaking, getting hit with the box could have caused it to fail.
If any outputs have weak legs or are shorted, the defective one and those in parallel with it will have to be replaced.
Soldering weakened legs from the top of the board to reinforce them really isn't an option because it will make the legs stiffer and will likely prevent the transistor from laying perfectly flat against the heatsink when the clips are reinstalled.
Perry your an absolute genius!
I checked the legs carefully under an LED light and guess what!? I found that most had slight cracks in the legs, just before where they meet the board...
So, I will replace all heatsink mounted components now.
The only parts I'm struggling to find at RS Components are 4x FMU32U (D18, D19, D32 & D33).
Any ideas?
I checked the legs carefully under an LED light and guess what!? I found that most had slight cracks in the legs, just before where they meet the board...
So, I will replace all heatsink mounted components now.
The only parts I'm struggling to find at RS Components are 4x FMU32U (D18, D19, D32 & D33).
Any ideas?
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