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 6th May 2011, 03:56 AM #11 seankane   diyAudio Member     Join Date: May 2010 Location: Washington State [QUOTE=Perry Babin;2563208]Post the voltage on all three terminals of the following transistors. Place the black meter probe on one of the non-bridging speaker terminals. Place the red meter probe on the point where you need to measure the voltage. Q128 B: -30.75 vdc C: 0.000 vdc E: -37.40 vdc Q129 B: -32 vdc C: -37.41 vdc E: -37.41 vdc Q118 B: +17.10 vdc C: +75.2 vdc E: +18.73 vdc Q119 B: +16.70 vdc C: +15.15 vdc E: +17.00 vdc
 6th May 2011, 04:07 AM #12 Perry Babin   diyAudio Member   Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana That should have been the 200 series parts... but, Q129 looks like it may be shorted. Post the voltage for the 200 series parts next. __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links
 6th May 2011, 04:32 AM #13 seankane   diyAudio Member     Join Date: May 2010 Location: Washington State [QUOTE=Perry Babin;2563208]Post the voltage on all three terminals of the following transistors. Place the black meter probe on one of the non-bridging speaker terminals. Place the red meter probe on the point where you need to measure the voltage. Q228 B: -34.20 vdc C: 0.000 vdc E: -34.72 vdc Q229 B: -35.36 vdc C: -37.41 vdc E: -34.81 vdc Q218 B: -4.09 vdc C: +75.2 vdc E: +1.800 vdc Q219 B: -4.75 vdc C: -0.860 vdc E: +1.950 vdc
 6th May 2011, 06:42 AM #14 seankane   diyAudio Member     Join Date: May 2010 Location: Washington State In the 100 series channel I found R140 and R170 to be way out of tolerance. These 2 are 33 ohm resistors. I replaced them and now the amp wont power up goes into full short and current draw on my power supply. Any thoughts on why that is?
 6th May 2011, 07:48 AM #15 seankane   diyAudio Member     Join Date: May 2010 Location: Washington State Changed Q128 and Q129 amp is now pulsing from 0 amps to 60 amps bouncing up and down.
 6th May 2011, 07:52 AM #16 seankane   diyAudio Member     Join Date: May 2010 Location: Washington State Changed Q119 and Q118. After those I powered up and Q117 and D103 blew. Changed Q117 and D103 now amp powers up and idles with same issue of 17 vdc on bridging terminal of left channel. I feel I have made no progress changing out the 2 bad resistors R140 and R170. After I power the amp up the current draw jumps up a little and I hear like a hissing noise or frequency noise from something in that channel. I dont know what to think?????
 6th May 2011, 11:33 PM #17 seankane   diyAudio Member     Join Date: May 2010 Location: Washington State Any ideas of where I should go next?
 7th May 2011, 12:56 AM #18 Perry Babin   diyAudio Member   Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana Let's deal with one channel at a time. If the 100 series channel is causing problems, pull the outputs. Does that allow the amp to power up? __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links
 7th May 2011, 01:26 AM #19 seankane   diyAudio Member     Join Date: May 2010 Location: Washington State I got the amp to power back up read my last 4 or 5 posts to get caught up.
 7th May 2011, 03:16 AM #20 Perry Babin   diyAudio Member   Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana Lift Q226 and Q230. Be careful, it may draw excessive current. If you have any other components out of the circuit in this channel, reinstall them. __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links

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