ADS POWER PLATE P2110.2 20TH ANNIVERSARY - diyAudio
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Old 26th April 2011, 04:42 PM   #1
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Default ADS POWER PLATE P2110.2 20TH ANNIVERSARY

would anybody happen to know where to get the push buttons for the x-overs? in the first pic you can see one fully intact button & 2 broken buttons with wires soldered across the contacts. i picked it up from a guy a few months back on craigslist & i haven't even checked it out yet but i noticed the buttons missing. it's not absolutely nessecery but i would to have the amp in as nice condition as possible (for my collection).

thanks
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File Type: jpg ADS1.jpg (951.4 KB, 68 views)
File Type: jpg ADS4.jpg (621.6 KB, 63 views)
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Old 26th April 2011, 11:22 PM   #3
RiLoWa is offline RiLoWa  United States
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I used these PBH2UEEKZXNAG1RBLK from Mouser in a P840 and P4100 before. I just removed the metal shield.
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Old 27th April 2011, 12:17 AM   #4
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i ordered some EG2655-ND & even found some black caps for em EG1882-ND. we'll see how they work.

thanks for the replies!
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Old 27th April 2011, 12:35 AM   #5
RiLoWa is offline RiLoWa  United States
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Thanks for the tip on just the caps, I find these missing often. As a side note, the ones from Mouser include the caps in the price, I didn't see that mentioned as included on Digikey's site.
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Old 27th April 2011, 04:49 PM   #6
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as of now im not getting any output from the amp. the power supply seems to be running fine and all the outputs are getting rail voltage but no signal. before i go any deeper ill probably wait on the new switches to get in and installed.
does anybody know if ads is affiliated with orion in any way? i just noticed a piece of an orion lable on the inner heat sink, it appears to be insulating the led leads from the heatsink.
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Old 27th April 2011, 05:28 PM   #7
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From the Directed site:

In 1994, Orion merged with ADS Technologies, pooling the resources of some of the leading home audio and professional equipment engineers in the world, resulting in products such as the DEQ30--the industry's first fully digital, standalone
30 band equalizer.
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Old 27th April 2011, 07:32 PM   #8
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perry, you are like a knowledge base that doesn't stop! what don't you know???
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Old 27th April 2011, 08:03 PM   #9
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Actually, I wasn't entirely sure until I looked it up.
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Old 28th April 2011, 02:23 AM   #10
RiLoWa is offline RiLoWa  United States
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Remove the jumper wire it looks incorrect. The switch when pushed in (turning Crossover ON if I remember right) make contact like the first pic. The switch when out (turning crossover OFF) makes contact like the second. I may have it backward, but the wire should NOT jump accross the rows.
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File Type: jpg Switch IN.jpg (74.4 KB, 25 views)
File Type: jpg Switch OUT.jpg (74.7 KB, 11 views)
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