ADS POWER PLATE P2110.2 20TH ANNIVERSARY

[bdgf2004]

would anybody happen to know where to get the push buttons for the x-overs? in the first pic you can see one fully intact button & 2 broken buttons with wires soldered across the contacts. i picked it up from a guy a few months back on craigslist & i haven't even checked it out yet but i noticed the buttons missing. it's not absolutely nessecery but i would to have the amp in as nice condition as possible (for my collection).

thanks

[Perry Babin]

Would this work?
http://spec.e-switch.com/Q-D/Q960000E.pdf
Digi-Key - EG2655-ND (Manufacturer - PBH2UEENAGX)

Or this?
Digi-Key - 401-1192-ND (Manufacturer - PHA2UEE)

[RiLoWa]

I used these PBH2UEEKZXNAG1RBLK from Mouser in a P840 and P4100 before. I just removed the metal shield.

[bdgf2004]

i ordered some EG2655-ND & even found some black caps for em EG1882-ND. we'll see how they work.

thanks for the replies!

[RiLoWa]

Thanks for the tip on just the caps, I find these missing often. As a side note, the ones from Mouser include the caps in the price, I didn't see that mentioned as included on Digikey's site.

[bdgf2004]

as of now im not getting any output from the amp. the power supply seems to be running fine and all the outputs are getting rail voltage but no signal. before i go any deeper ill probably wait on the new switches to get in and installed.
does anybody know if ads is affiliated with orion in any way? i just noticed a piece of an orion lable on the inner heat sink, it appears to be insulating the led leads from the heatsink.

[Perry Babin]

From the Directed site:

In 1994, Orion merged with ADS Technologies, pooling the resources of some of the leading home audio and professional equipment engineers in the world, resulting in products such as the DEQ30--the industry's first fully digital, standalone
30 band equalizer.

[bdgf2004]

perry, you are like a knowledge base that doesn't stop! what don't you know???

[Perry Babin]

Actually, I wasn't entirely sure until I looked it up.

[RiLoWa]

Remove the jumper wire it looks incorrect. The switch when pushed in (turning Crossover ON if I remember right) make contact like the first pic. The switch when out (turning crossover OFF) makes contact like the second. I may have it backward, but the wire should NOT jump accross the rows.