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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: memphis tn
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ok i have this amp the guy who had it touched the speakers and it fried the power supply. what would cause the amp not to power up at all?
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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It could be a few different things.
Did you check the reverse polarity diode (usually located behind the power and ground connections. Could be an open trace . What are the voltages you have on the power supply IC ? |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
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If this guy touched the speaker outputs together and subsequently damaged the power supply section. I would look beyond the obvious damage and inspect the output section. Is this an amp you just recieved or is an amp your having problems with after said repair has been done?
__________________
...............I Hear in color................. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Assuming that you've already replaced all of the power supply components that were obviously defective...
Do you have 12v on the center legs of the power supply FETs?
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: memphis tn
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ok i got the amp to function right. it use irfz48 in the power supply with 100ohm resistor should i lower the gate resistors. the output transistors are 31n20's and wanted to if 9640' would work? and this is an amp i just got in.
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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The 100 ohm gate resistors are likely a bit high for the Z48s. I'd suggest replacing them with resistors between 47 and 75 ohms. If you don't want to replace them and have a variable power supply, reduce the voltage to about 10.5v to see if the current increases or the Z48s get hot. If you see either of these, you must reduce the resistor value.
The 9640 isn't a sub for the 31N20D. There aren't many (none that I know of ) that will serve as a good sub for the 31N20Ds in all amps that use them.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: memphis tn
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i thought that was high for the gate but thats whats in there when i got it.it came from ebay so who knows.
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: memphis tn
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ok i got the power supply working but when i put the out put transistors in it smokes two driver transistors.it looks to be the exact driver board i just fix on the power acoustic amp. its the same 2 drivers are failing on here.
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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When those fail, they typically just open (no smoke). If they (or an adjacent resistor) smoked, I'd expect that there was another problem. Confirm that you don't have any solder bridges on the outputs.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: memphis tn
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the two transistors are ksp56.can i use mps42 as the replacement?and it was a ball of solder between the two pads.
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