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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
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I have this Coustic 400SE amp here that is powering up in protect. There are no obvioulsy blown/shorted outputs or power supply fets even. Checked every one of them with the meter and everything looks normal there. Upon applying remote turn on power to the amp it comes on with a red light indicating protection. If you leave it on for a few minutes it will randomly try to come out of protect for a second or two and then go right back into protect. Not really sure where to start with this one. It looks like the power supply driver IC is mounted on a little vertical board in the power supply area but it has been ground down so much you can't even see the clock mark.
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Photo of the amp and driver board?
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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If you have the DVD, find the following file:
/repair_tutorial/miscellaneousstuff/coustic/coustic600se/cousticamplifierdriverboard.swf
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
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I will get those ASAP. The driver board is similar to the coustic amp in your tutorial but has a few differences.
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
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After looking at the driver board in the tutorial I am thinking that these two driver boards are essentially the same however the one in this amp doesn't have as many smd caps in it. Next time I get a chance I am going to check those caps to see if they are shorted. In any of these that you have worked on Perry did they behave like this amp as in they would power on in protect and then try to power on every so often?
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Pull the rectifiers and see if the power supply will produce output. Measure the DC voltage on the gates of the power supply FETs.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
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Pulled the rectifiers and the amp powers on no problem. Power supply is functioning properly at this point. Put back in one set of rectifiers at a time(one in each supply) and narrowed the problem down to one channel. Not sure how but the first time through I missed a pair of shorted outputs(TIP35C). Clipped the TIP35c's out of the circuit and put the other set of rectifiers back in and now with all rectifiers in the amp it powers on and idles normally. So I have a channel I need to repair. Other than the outputs,drivers,and emitter resistors is there anything else in this particular amp that may need to be inspected/repaired/replaced?
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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There is likely only one of the TIP35 and 36 shorted. Reinstall the two that are not shorted to see if it will produce clean audio. If it does, then you probably only need to replace the 4 output transistors.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
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I will give that a shot. Thanks Perry
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