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#11 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
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A 1ohm resistor just popped off the board with minimal pressure. its location is R202 and is in the very corner, component side, to the right of the above 3 marked resistors. This 1 ohm resistor is actually still measuring OK off the board - Its probably damaged through. Seems only one driver board is like this.
Seems all the through-hole diodes on both driver boards are measuring ~0.650 and checking OK while in circuit via my Fluke 10. i think they are OK. Next up: testing the drivers out... |
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
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All surface mount diodes seem to be OK.
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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The Zeners are generally silver or orange leaded components, not SMD. Sometimes you have to apply power and confirm that the voltage across them is OK. 11v-13v is OK
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
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I got this amp to power and produce clean audio with all boards installed. All PNP drivers checked out OK - All the problem was - that single 1ohm surface mount resistor on one of the driver board.
Time to put it back together and order some new PS fets! Thanks! |
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#15 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
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Befor now, I was able to get the amp to play clean audio through a test speaker; but that was when only 2 output transistors were installed on each side. Now with all 12 output transistors installed the amp experiences problems.
Hmm I'm stumped! Q214 / Q254 outputs get hot after just a few seconds of 5A supplied power. With the driver boards removed they stay cool. I pulled all 12 small transistors off one of the driver boards and they are all checking out. |
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#16 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Are the gate resistors within tolerance?
Do you have a good gate signal on the gate leg (not on the board)? Is the amp drawing excessive current? It's possible that the transistors in question have a slightly lower threshold and are turning on a bit quicker than the others. Swap these with an adjacent transistor to see if the heat follows the transistor or the location.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#17 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
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Gate resistors are all measuring up fine. There are 10 ohm resistors and 100k ohm resistors. In circuit the 100k ohm resistors are measuring up at 47k ohms.
Amp is drawing more than 5A of current as my power supply has a really tough time powering the amplifier up. After a few seconds of it power cycling the outputs in question are already hotter than can be touched. They are still measuring OK via DVM. I removed the warming pair of IRF9640 and the heating problem just jumps to the next transistor. It appears the defective range and heating problem is at Q213/Q214 and Q253/Q254. It appears to me that the driver boards have three driver sections each pertaining to a pair of outputs. Im not 100% sure how to measure the gate signal. I set my scope to AC coupling and shielded the probe to tap. Leg 1 of the outputs only shows some basic static and nothing really signal related. I'm still trying a few things though. |
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#18 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
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Now Ive got a wierd one going on. I'm trying to get the amp to power with just one or two IRF9540 outputs and they are just dropping like flies. I power up the amp and instandly the IRF9540 I put in goes dead shorted without heating at all. This is definately wierd.
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#19 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Did you confirm that the 12v Zeners were all within tolerance?
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#20 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
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If the 12v zeners are D201 and D202 then they measure OK via the DVM (Beeps and 0.700). While powered they measure ~12 across them. There are other through-hole diodes on the driver boards and they all seem to be ok for what I can tell.
With one driver board installed, I am getting what I think is erroneous voltage readings on the gate pads. Whereas before leg 1 & 3 were meauring +63vDC, with the driver board installed leg 1 measures +54vDC on Q213 and Q214 and +56vDC on Q211 and Q212. Leg 3 always measures +63vDC on these. When the driver boards are removed the voltages on Leg1&3 are +63vDC. Last edited by Dr Zeus; 5th April 2011 at 12:39 PM. |
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