Orion HCCA 225 digital reference blows fuse

ash4kel · 19th March 2011, 12:04 AM

Hi to everyone out there. Hoping someone can help. I know it seems common for these amplifiers to "fry", but I was am hoping to learn something and help this amp at the same time. I do have electrical knowledge but not a lot in electronics, so here it goes. I have read the posts here on the forum that pertain to some of the HCCA amps. I concentrated mostly on the post about the HCCA 250 that was grounding out. I tried to follow what Perry was asking the person to do but I do not know how much of the readings pertain to my amp since my amp is a 225 with an xtr275 board. It seems to me that the fets are consistent with each other but I don't know if they are consistently good or bad. The minute I turn on the amp with the remote, it blows. I mainly am looking for what the fets should read and other other transistors to look for. Thanks in advance. Scott

timwebb · 19th March 2011, 01:06 AM

this should help.

Basic Amplifier Repair - Transistor Test Applet Link

Perry Babin · 19th March 2011, 12:50 PM

Do you read 0 ohms between the legs of any individual transistor?

Check them Leg 1 to leg 2, 1-3 and 2-3.

ash4kel · 19th March 2011, 06:24 PM

.02 ohms between legs 1 and 3 of the FET labled GI FEN16CT 9520. There is one on each side of amp.

Perry Babin · 19th March 2011, 06:37 PM

Those are rectifiers, not FETs. Are you sure that the numbers in the face of the rectifiers are exactly the same? They should not be.

ash4kel · 19th March 2011, 06:42 PM

You are correct, they are not the same, sorry. The other is a GI FEP16CT 9520

ash4kel · 19th March 2011, 06:54 PM

The K1542 FETS seem to test good. There are four 2n6491 on each side that seem good. I have four 2n6488 on one side and 3 on the other. I believe this amp has had a repair before because I have one 2n6487 in place of where the other side has an 88 in it's place. But they all seem test good. or at least no shorts.

Perry Babin · 19th March 2011, 07:34 PM

Remove the rectifiers and desolder the pads. Does it still blow the fuse when you apply remote voltage?

Clamp all transistors to the heatsink before applying power. Use a 15 amp fuse.

ash4kel · 19th March 2011, 08:09 PM

When the rectifiers are removed and desoldered it did not blow the fuse. All I had was a 7.5 amp fuse, but it held.

Perry Babin · 19th March 2011, 08:15 PM

Did the solder connections appear to have the original solder connections?

Do you have anything (large 2 ohm resistor, automotive headlamp...) that you can use as a current limiter in the B+ line?

19th March 2011, 12:04 AM	#1
ash4kel diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2011	Orion HCCA 225 digital reference blows fuse Hi to everyone out there. Hoping someone can help. I know it seems common for these amplifiers to "fry", but I was am hoping to learn something and help this amp at the same time. I do have electrical knowledge but not a lot in electronics, so here it goes. I have read the posts here on the forum that pertain to some of the HCCA amps. I concentrated mostly on the post about the HCCA 250 that was grounding out. I tried to follow what Perry was asking the person to do but I do not know how much of the readings pertain to my amp since my amp is a 225 with an xtr275 board. It seems to me that the fets are consistent with each other but I don't know if they are consistently good or bad. The minute I turn on the amp with the remote, it blows. I mainly am looking for what the fets should read and other other transistors to look for. Thanks in advance. Scott

19th March 2011, 12:50 PM	#3
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	Do you read 0 ohms between the legs of any individual transistor? Check them Leg 1 to leg 2, 1-3 and 2-3. __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links

19th March 2011, 06:37 PM	#5
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	Those are rectifiers, not FETs. Are you sure that the numbers in the face of the rectifiers are exactly the same? They should not be. __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links

19th March 2011, 07:34 PM	#8
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	Remove the rectifiers and desolder the pads. Does it still blow the fuse when you apply remote voltage? Clamp all transistors to the heatsink before applying power. Use a 15 amp fuse. __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links

19th March 2011, 08:15 PM	#10
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	Did the solder connections appear to have the original solder connections? Do you have anything (large 2 ohm resistor, automotive headlamp...) that you can use as a current limiter in the B+ line? __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links


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19th March 2011, 01:06 AM	#2
timwebb diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: memphis tn	this should help. Basic Amplifier Repair - Transistor Test Applet Link

19th March 2011, 06:24 PM	#4
ash4kel diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2011	.02 ohms between legs 1 and 3 of the FET labled GI FEN16CT 9520. There is one on each side of amp.

19th March 2011, 06:42 PM	#6
ash4kel diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2011	You are correct, they are not the same, sorry. The other is a GI FEP16CT 9520

19th March 2011, 06:54 PM	#7
ash4kel diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2011	The K1542 FETS seem to test good. There are four 2n6491 on each side that seem good. I have four 2n6488 on one side and 3 on the other. I believe this amp has had a repair before because I have one 2n6487 in place of where the other side has an 88 in it's place. But they all seem test good. or at least no shorts.

19th March 2011, 08:09 PM	#9
ash4kel diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2011	When the rectifiers are removed and desoldered it did not blow the fuse. All I had was a 7.5 amp fuse, but it held.

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